If you’ve checked out my About page, you know that I’ve done a fair amount of running.  Even if I’m not the fastest, racing has always been fun for me.  I like setting a goal and accomplishing it.  With friends, even better. When I moved to Japan, I needed my fix.  Though much the same, sometimes it’s tricky to figure out how to enter a marathon in Japan. Then you add in the confusion that not all marathons in Japan are what you imagine.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

When a Marathon isn’t a Marathon

First of all, if you see advertisements at the train station or in town, don’t let them fool you.  Sometimes, a marathon in Japan is NOT a marathon.  Which is kind of a plus for all my friends that say they’d rather die than think about running races in Japan, let alone a marathon.  Come on over to Japan, you can run a “marathon” that’s only a 10K.  Hell, I think I’ve seen them as 5K before. 

Not as much of a stretch, the Yokosuka Seaside Marathon, which was my first road race in Japan tops out at a half marathon distance. It’s an out and back course along the water with quite a lot of participants. Bonus when you can walk to the start of the course, makes the morning not so early!

Don’t worry, if the distance you are looking for is a marathon in Japan, there are plenty of those around as well! Including Tokyo Marathon which is included in the six largest marathons in the world that is the Abbott World Marathon Majors. Another that I’ve enjoyed – especially for the views of Mount Fuji is the Shonan International Marathon.

How do you say marathon in Japanese?

If you’ve been reading for while, you know that I love throwing in some basic Japanese to make it easier to research Japan for a trip, or just because you’re interested! The word for marathon in Japan uses the katakana マラソン (ma-ra-so-n). Foreign word, “foreign” syllabary (I explain that more in my post about Japanese written languages).

But as discussed, this more times than not it seems just equates to “road race”. If you are looking for specific details you’ll want to get in the weeds a bit more to make sure what distance you are actually signing up for!

Marathon in Japan: How do I get in?

One of the juxtapositions in Japan: you see a lot of smokers (I was super happy to see they are starting to implement anti-smoking laws ahead of the Olympics), but nearly all of my coworkers I know that smoke, also run.  What I’m trying to say, is whereas in the US the “big” races are hard to get into, all road races in Japan are hard to get into because even those you might not see as runners – run! One caveat to that is if you can find smaller, more local options.

In order to get into many of the various road races and marathons in Japan, you’ll have to look out for raffles. Especially for the “big” races, because if you are coming from overseas, I’d imagine that’s what you are going for.

One good thing if you are looking for an international running trip? To help promote tourism, Japan races tend to have spots set aside for foreigners – first come, first serve. Or have smaller “international lotteries” as they do for the Tokyo Marathon. (You do sometimes pay for the privilege though).

The act of applying itself isn’t always easy. Sometimes it is tricky to find on the website how to actually pay. The way I’ve found is the easiest to sign up (though there are some others), is to go to JTB Sports. They have an English site now which makes it much easier but some races are only on the Japanese side so make two accounts and watch them both. (Google Chrome translate function is your friend).

For the bigger races, and how I got into the Tokyo Marathon, there are often times all-inclusive trips set up by travel agents that include the entry fee into the race.  This option by all means was very expensive, but I also ended up staying in one of the nicest hotels in Tokyo because of it, and was completely worth it.

What’s the cost of a race or marathon in Japan?

I’ve found overall, that the cost of a marathon in Japan and other distances of road races are extremely reasonable compared to how they are getting some places in the states for the big-name races.  For instance, you can nail an “overseas” 2019 Tokyo Marathon entry for 12,800 円. The New York marathon costs nearly $300 and bumps that up to $358 for overseas applicants.

My local half marathon in Yokosuka is around 4800 円 or about $48 USD depending on the current conversion rates.  Back stateside, I always ran the Shamrock Marathon with my friends. The half marathon entry for the Shamrock starts at $80 at the time of writing this and increase to well over a $100 the closer you get to race day. 

On that note, I haven’t seen that methodology in Japan, of increasing the price depending on how close you are to race day. I’m going out on a limb and thinking it is probably because they sell out so fast.

The 5K Ekiden (駅伝, a type of relay race) I run with some of my Japanese friends around the Tokyo Imperial Palace (side note, that is just a great running route for anyone that loves Japanese castles!) is around $20.

The Bling and Course Support

My friends and I used to joke (and even made shirts for it one year) that we ran marathons solely for the bananas at the end. If there was beer – even better! Running a race is surely about getting out there and meeting a goal, whether it be just finishing or hitting a PR. But let’s be honest, it’s also a plus to have all that course support in the form of hydration, food and spectators.

The “hey I did this thing!” t-shirts or technical shirts, participation medals and finisher items don’t necessarily hurt either.

For the course support, you might be surprised at what you are able to partake. My experience with running races and marathon in Japan, you are more likely to see umeboshi than a gel packet. What’s umeboshi? A pickled, very sour plum which lots of salt to help with you electrolytes. You’d think that would be a bit odd to work on while running – watch out cause sometimes there are pits! – but it works and delicious. You’ll see other “real food” as well like nuts and bananas.

For the marathon in Japan I’ve run, that each had about 30,000 participants, there were technical shirts as part of your race packet and you also received a finisher medal. Fun fact – some of the races in Japan will automatically send you your race packet so there is no reason for you to go to the expo and pick up your bib number and other goodies. To that end, sometimes there isn’t an expo so it just makes it easier for pick up anyways.

Possibly the nicest touch was during the Shonan Marathon in Japan, you could get your race time ON YOUR SHIRT! Being my best personal record (or PR as we like to say) to date, you bet I got that done! For the Tokyo Marathon, we received towels as our finisher items.

Spectator support is also very high in Japan which makes the experience of running a marathon in Japan that much better. I think for the Tokyo Marathon I spent the entire time high fiving people as I ran by.

What about after parties for races in Japan?

Sadly, post-race provided beer like you see at many of the races in America (or at least the ones I like to do) isn’t generally a thing.  However, a lot of times you will see coupons to promote local bars, and beer in Japan is generally pretty cheap cost-wise if you go with the big name companies. If all else fails, there are always convenience stores to grab a quick drink from if you don’t want to be sweaty in a izakaya. 

Instead of a race sponsored after party, after our yearly ekiden (4 person relay around the palace in Tokyo), my running team likes to go out for a nomikai (drink party). Before that though? We hit a 銭湯 or Sentou, which is a public bath house to soak after our hard work. I’ll talk about the differences between an onsen and sentou in another post but the concept is the same. Take a shower to wash off and then dip in a nice warm bath.

For the party part of it, we like to get monjayaki which is Tokyo’s version of the popular okonomiyaki.

What’s your next race?

Have you run a race in Japan?  What was your experience?  If you haven’t, are you thinking about it? Let me know in the comments!

Ah, the monthly utility bills, time to send in a check or sign in to an online payment…. not necessarily in Japan! How you pay bills in Japan is a little different.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in June of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

How you will receive utility bills in Japan

One thing you will want to check your mail for besides Domino’s coupons and other random fliers about take away sushi and the like is your utility bills, how else will you pay bills in Japan? When determining the amount due, it is normally listed in multiple spots on the paper. Look for the symbol for yen, 円.

Why is it in multiple spots? When you pay bills in Japan, the receipts go to multiple different people. Do you see the perforation on the paper? Don’t take those apart yourself!! One will go to you, and the others go to the company and as record for who ever took your payment (more on that in a second).

How to easily pay bills in Japan: Gas, Electric, Water Utility bills in Japan

Need an excuse to get outside for some extra steps (I love my Garmin Fenix 6S for fitness tracking!), take your bill down to your local convenience store or the Japanese Post Office and hand them over to the clerk to pay utility bills in Japan. 

They’ll scan them in and after you pay — in CASH — will stamp them paid, remove the sections of the bill they need for the receipt, give you your half and send you on your merry way.  Remember when I mentioned JP ATMs? Yeah, this is why.  Saves on the postage fees but something to adjust to when your use to in America paying utility bills online.  

It however also adds to the fact that convenience stores really are, convenient.

Personally, I kind of like going to the konbini once a month to pay my bills, pick up a few things, see what new instant ramen or onigiri options there are.  You can’t throw a rock in town (especially if you live near the train stations) without hitting a コンビニ (konbini, convenience store) so this never caused an issue. 

Can I use bank withdrawals or automatic payments for my utility bills in Japan?

While this article is written from the perspective of someone living in Japan under a status of forces agreement (SOFA), the key basics are the same – except this! Unless I had a spouse that was working for a Japanese company, it’s pretty hard for me to get a Japanese bank account. Nigh impossible, but also not a huge concern as 7-11 ATMs take foreign bank cards (as does the Japanese Post Office). My bank is also available on base.

However, for bill paying in Japan to be automated to a bank account, you’ll need a Japanese bank. (If I’m wrong and someone has figured out how to do it, please share! But I tried and got harsh glares when I asked!). For automatic payments, you’ll have to submit an application to the utility company. This can take some time to process, so make sure not to miss a month!

Cell Phone Bill Paying in Japan

My cell phone bill in Japan I do actually have the option to have automatic payments set up on my credit card or receive a bill in the mail.  With the bill being received in the mail, you at least have a reminder to make sure you don’t have any erroneous charges (though they ARE in Japanese so Google Translate, find a friend, or learn Japanese) and you can take your bill either to your cell phone provider in that case or you can take them to the コンビニ (konbini, convenience store) as well. 

Bill Paying Services: GI Bill Pay

An option for the 20,000+ Americans working in Yokosuka Japan (and other bases around the country) is to use a bill-paying service to pay bills in Japan. Gas, Electric, and Water and your rent can all be taken care of. For military personnel that may be gone for months at a time, this is a great time saver and stress reliever. They charge a small fee every month but you don’t have to ever worry about being late on a bill payment. 

With my first rental in Japan, I had the option to use a bill-paying service but it was not required.  I chose not to use it because I thought it was super fun to pay bills in Japan at the convenience store or コンビニ (konbini). My second landlord required it, something that will be confirmed during your lease signing.  It definitely took some of the “hassle” away, if you can even call it that. There are convenience stores all over Japan, I pass multiple each day. The only thing would be remembering to bring the bill!

What do you think of the Japanese bill paying system?

I’m going save you the trouble and teach you the most useful word in Japanese, すみません (sumimasen).  I very distinctively remember this.  When I first came to Japan in January of 2006, I’d been in love with Japan since I was little.

• Watched anime religiously.  I was the president of the anime society in uni… yeah, I’ll admit it, I wear my otaku proudly.
• Would randomly try and teach myself Japanese.  Unfortunately, the times Japanese was offered at school always interfered with my mandatory engineering classes.
• “Concentrated” in Japan for IB Art in high school.
• I could go on…

That being said, embarrassing to admit, I knew maybe 10 words.  You know, the normal: hello, goodbye, thank you (I have some beef with how this is used, that’s for another day), I’m sorry, order a beer, count to 10.  Or at least I thought, I knew the word for I’m sorry.  Granted, gomennasai、ごめんなさい (interested in an overview of hiragana, one of Japan’s syllabaries? The details are fascinating) does mean “I’m sorry”, you don’t hear it very often in Japan. 

Sumimasen, すみません, not only means I’m sorry or please excuse me, where in English we would say “thank you”, in Japanese you say sumimasen. However, it means so much more, and I’d never even heard it (and apparently wasn’t picking up on it by watching all that anime)!  Let alone get stuck tongue-twisting it (it took me a second to get su-mi-ma-sen). Let’s delve in!

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in August of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

The 7 Ways of Sumimasen

While it is normally written as kana alone (すみません), formally it is 済みません. The kanji, 済 can mean “settle (as in debt)”, “relieve of a burden”, “finish”. To be quite literal, the word sumimasen is the polite negative of the verb “sumu” (済む, to be over/to be settled). But it gets more complicated than that.

In the late 1990s, linguist Risako Ide performed a study on the meaning of “sumimasen” to which they titled, “‘Sorry for your kindness’: Japanese interactional ritual in public discourse”. The purpose? To explain the dual function of the word as both an expression of apology but also of thanks. It then delves into how this has become a ritualistic notion in Japanese conversation. The main takeaway is there are SEVEN meanings of the word. Hence making sumimasen a super useful word in Japanese.

1. Can be used as a sincere apology (see more in a second why you use this instead of gomennasai)
2. As a quasi-thanks and apology
3. To make a request
4. As a way to get attention
5. Said while taking leave
6. Used as an affirmative response
7. Finally as an exchange of acknowledgment that stems into a very ritualistic aspect of “aisatsu”.

Just to be confusing, you can also say “すいません” or “suimasen”, that or “sumimasen” are valid. As it is just dropping the consonant, it makes it slightly easier to say, it is also a bit less formal to say suimasen vs. sumimasen.

1. Gomennasai vs. Sumimasen, using sumimasen as a sincere apology

Recall back in the days of 10 Japanese words worth of knowledge, I had learned “gomennasai” (ごめんなさい) was how you say “I’m sorry”. Now, if you happen to say “gomennasai” to a complete stranger, it’s fine. You’ll get your point across. “I’m sorry”.  Which unlike sumimasen with it’s 7 different uses, gomennasai (and it’s shortened renditions) only has one. It doesn’t have the nuisances available to you, and “gomennasai” has a personal aspect to it. You know this person and you really mean it.  Think deep bow means it. I did some great personal injustice to you and acknowledging my mistake.

That said, with friends and close coworkers, I normally drop the ending (as you do with many things in Japanese) and just say “gomen”.  Saying “gomen” is much less formal than “gomennesai” but it still has a personal connection aspect to it. 

As a casual traveler, I would ere more on using sumimasen as an apology, but where? Think “I bumped into you just now and I’m terribly sorry”. More polite but not “I just hit you with my car”.  Nuances with language, so fun.  For most cases, you’ll be in the accidental-bump stage and sumimasen is a much more appropriate word in that instance than gomennasai.

More formally, you could say “sumimasen deshita”. In terms of truly sincere apologies, moushiwake arimasen. 申し訳ありません is the most formal, but I digress.

2. As a quasi-thanks and apology

It took me a second to be able to describe this one in English terms. Here you are using it in a very humble sense to show regret for asking something but also thanks for doing it. Say you’re watching a documentary about Japan with your friends but they’d rather be watching anime and you oblige by changing the Roku over to the Crunchyroll app. Your friend would say “sumimasen” in this case cause they know you love that documentary but they are thankful you let them change the course of the evening.

Another instance would be where someone may hold the door for you (elevator or otherwise), it’s more common to hear people say “sumimasen” vs. “arigatou” for “thank you”.

3. Making a request with sumimasen

Say you’re lost looking at a map or trying to find someplace to go, the easiest way to get someone’s attention is to say “sumimasen” and look helpless like you probably are feeling.

You can think of it as “excuse me” as in “excuse me could you please tell me how to get to X because Japanese addresses are super confusing!”. That’s right folks, say bye-bye to street names, we work mostly with blocks in Japan. While there are some, it gets difficult. So if you need to ask for directions whether while walking, driving, or taking the train, you would start off “sumimasen”.

4. Sumi-ing at Restaurants and other “getting attention” uses

Now, the creme de la creme…I have a tendency to make things a verb or randomly add “y”s to things. Sumi-ing is one of those instances.  Like with friends, “you sumi-ing or am I?” (notice also, I dropped part of the word, #welcometojapanese101).  What am I talking about?  Well, in Japan, the staff at restaurants will generally leave you completely alone unless you call them over. 

This isn’t America where they’ll be stopping by to check on you.  You need something? Ask.  And by ask, I mean, don’t feel bad about yelling “sumimasen”. Yes, I said yelling.  It can get loud in izakayas, or you could be in a one-man show and they had to run to the back.  One problem with this is it gets ingrained in you and I have to stop myself from yelling “sumimasen” in other countries, though it is pretty funny when it slips in America.

Similarly, if you need to get someone’s attention because, say they dropped their wallet on the street (more on my missing wallet story another time), you would yell it in this case too.

5. Politely taking your leave

This one starts to get into “失礼します” (shitsureishimasu, which literally can be “I’m being rude) territory but stick with me.  When will you here “shitsurei shimasu”? Often when a waiter comes to take your order at a restaurant or drops off food at your table. It has an “I’m intruding” feel to it. But what else could you use in that situation? Sumimasen.

Another perfect use that fits this aspect? How about when you are trying to end a conversation? This is the word for you. Frankly I wish we had something similar in English.

6. As affirmation

Say you’re waiting to get into a super popular ramen restaurant. It’s finally your turn! The employee comes out and says “sorry to make you wait” (お待たせしました, omataseshimashita!), you could just grunt in acknowledgment – you’re hungry after all for some spicy ramen goodness (maybe, tantanmen is one of my faves at least!). Or more politely, you can say…ding ding ding, sumimasen!

Side note: the apologizing for making you wait as opposed to in America where you are probably more likely to hear something like “thanks for waiting”, goes back to the humble aspect of the Japanese language.

7. Timed in ritual

Aisatsu (挨拶) can basically be compared to what we would consider different types of “greetings” in English. A bit more complicated than that for our current purposes. It’s deeply a ritual aspect of Japan. Think bowing! Which is exactly what this use of sumimasen is. Think of it as a verbal use for the non-verbal bow.

The Japanese language is fun!

There you have it, some helpful tips and a bit of humor for you, I hope. To start, I would concentrate on using sumimasen as an apology, like when you bump into someone while exploring busy areas, like the historic regions of Kanazawa, and definitely try out “sumi-ing” at the local monjayaki restaurants in Tokyo or any restaurant or izakaya, for ordering or asking for the bill. Except perhaps those with a doorbell, like Denny’s.

Like I’ve said before, Japanese is a fun language, case in point by my writing over 1500 words about ONE word. If you want to expand your knowledge of Japanese, definitely check out some of my text reviews.

Do you have a favorite word?

New Years Eve in Japan is a bit different than what you may be used to elsewhere in the world. A more subdued holiday, most people head to their family homes, much more similar to Christmas in the West.  You can still find count downs similar to western-style celebrations, but my friends and I like to go the more traditional route.

This year of COVID isolation has made everything a little wonky, and yes, I’m updating this post in the new year! Better late than never but one good thing that came of 2020 is that I’ve been able to update a lot of older blog posts. This year for New years eve in Japan there was much more watching of Kohaku then heading out but here’s to dreaming of the years to come.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in December of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

What is New Years eve in Japan called?

In Japanese, New Years eve is called “大晦日” (Ōmisoka). “晦日” (Misoka) refers to the last day of the month and since it’s a big deal swapping years it gets a “大” (long o sound, “big”) on the front. You will also see events for New years eve in Japan simply referred to as “New Year’s Eve” though. Another word for it is “年越し” or “toshikoshi”, which leads to our next point.

New Years day in Japanese, in case you are curious, is called “元日” or ganjitsu. The “New Year” is called お正月 (o-shougatsu, the “o” is an honorific), especially referring to the first three days. While some of this post bleeds over into the first day (as New Years eve is ought to do), I’ll concentrate on the particulars of お正月 some other time.

Eat Toshikoshi Soba (年越し蕎麦)

You start the evening with dinner or a snack of Toshikoshi soba which brings good luck for the following year.  Toshikoshi soba (年越し蕎麦） translates as “year-crossing soba”. Soba noodles are supposed to signify a long life because they are long and thin. The tradition is thought to have started several hundred years ago. There is lots of superstition surrounding this meal though.

• Don’t bite them or you’ll cut life short!  Though NOT chewing them I think would also lead to a short life as I don’t know how not to choke on them otherwise. I’ve also seen where because they are so easy to break (soba especially made traditionally with only buckwheat is very fragile), you are “breaking free” of the past.
• It is also said to bring stamina due to the fact that buckwheat is a very hearty plant.
• You are supposed to have it early in the evening as after midnight signifies bad luck, since you were supposed to “cut off” the evils of the prior year before then. 

Whatever you decide to believe, adding toshikoshi soba to your New Years eve in Japan celebration is a delicious meal and you’ll find soba restaurants all over. But why just Japan? It’s truly a simple meal to make.

Prepare a quick dashi broth from kombu seaweed and dried shitake mushrooms or bonito flakes (katsuobushi), add some mirin and soy sauce and you have the base. Soba noodles can be found in Asian or specialty food stores and take the same amount of time as most long noodles (and no need to do anything special like with ramen noodles). Top with some scallions and maybe a little American wasabi (horseradish – only partially joking as that’s normally what the “wasabi” is in America), and voila!

Oh, and a little bit of shichimi togarashi seasoning (more on that another time) is a tasty accompaniment.

Watch Kouhaku Uta Gassen (紅白歌合戦)

Feel like staying in? What’s New Year’s Eve without a ridiculous television show? Similar to Western count down shows, except heavy on the singing aspect is 紅白歌合戦 (Kouhaku Uta Gassen) or “Red and White Singing Contest”. The Japan Broadcasting Network (otherwise known as NHK) has been running the program since 1951 originally as a radio show and then was moved to TV.

There is a red and white team that compete throughout the evening. Starting around 7 or 8, it runs to exactly 11:45 – room to get to hurry to your next event, Hatsumode.

Head to the Shrine for Hatsumode (初詣)

Next, just before midnight, head to a shrine for Hatsumode (初詣) or the first shrine visit of the year. (Some will go to a Temple instead, see the next topic!) Probably the most popular shrine in Tokyo for Hatsumode is the Meiji shrine (明治神宮). Dedicated to Emporer Meiji (the 15-year old that ruled after the fall of the shogunate) and his wife, it should be on your list of shrines to see anyway. Located next to Harajuku Station, it’s easy to get to but normally (see aforementioned COVID comment) super crowded and you could be waiting for hours with thousands of your new close friends. 

My friends and I like a smaller shrine on the other side of Cat Street called 穏田神社 (Onden Shrine). While the exact date of their existence is unknown, there is reference to the local god of Onden from the Edo period making them around 400 years old. Most of the buildings were lost in the war so they have been rebuilt since but it is a nice little shrine. Why this one though? My friend works practically next door and visits it often!

If you arrive before midnight, there will be a line to wait to pray as the goal is to pray for a good year as soon as possible but not too early!

What is the large hoop of grass at Shinto Shines?

You may have noticed in those pictures what appears like a circle made of straw. This is called a 茅の輪 (chinowa) and you will see them around New Years’ and in the month of June at Shinto shrines. If you do you can take place in the purification ritual called 茅の輪くぐり (chinowa kuguri). You will walk around it in a figure-eight pattern.

1. Bow in front, step with your left foot over the ring and head to the left.
2. Once around to the front again, bow again and step with your right foot over and head to the right.
3. One more time! Bow at the front, step with your left foot and head to the left.
4. Back at the front, bow, step with your left and head forward to the shrine to pray.

After praying at Onden Shrine, you are offered a taste of sake in a small plate looking vessel called sakazuki. Sakazuki is a wide-mouthed, flat sake cup. Different from how you will normally see sake served, this style is used in Shinto rituals and ceremonies. Lift the cup with both hands, one on the bottom and one on the side. For a small offering, you can keep the sakazuki as a souvenir. Each year they have the new zodiac animal.

The next thing you will see is the お守り (omamori) for sale. These are amulets or charms for various things and it is common to start the new year off with one. Another reason I love this small shrine is that they make a huge batch of amazaki (甘酒, sweet sake) for all patrons, not to be missed. It’s delicious and served warm it is perfect on cold nights.

Hear the bells of Joya no kane (除夜の鐘)

If you are instead at a Buddhist temple at midnight (Hatsumode can take place at either a shrine or a temple), you can hear them toll the new year in. Get ready to count because the bell will ring 108 times.  108 is ominous in Buddhist and is supposed to signify the 108 human desires. 

Luckily, many shrines and temples are near each other so even if you are at a shrine, you can hear the bells. And just to make it more confusing, I’ve seen some shrines with bells as well. 

See the first sunrise or Hatsuhinode (初日の出)

It’s a big thing to see the sunrise and again, wish for good luck in the coming year. This is called Hatsuhinode which can be quite literally translated the “the beginning day rising”.  Many people will gather on the beaches or tops of the mountains to start their new year off. There are recommended spots put out every year along with forecasts for the morning so you can ensure to actually see the sun.

In the capital, Mount Takao is a favorite as well as Tokyo Tower, which opens the observation deck at 6 am for New Years Day. Tokyo Sky Tree (which honestly I like better than Tokyo Tower as far as observation decks go) holds a lottery (again, normally. This year hasn’t been normal) every year to get a spot to see from there. Another good spot is the observation deck at Haneda Airport with its unobstructed view across Tokyo Bay to Chiba prefecture. They also (normally) open earlier than usual for the event.

Yes, there are still some western-style Celebrations

If you want a good old fashioned ball drop, there are plenty of pubs that will have a more “western” celebration with paper fireworks and silly “happy new years!” hats. If clubs are more your scene, head over to Shibuya or Roppongi, the latter being much more international. Another pick and one of the largest clubs I’ve ever seen (though I’m more of a pub girl than a club girl) is on the eastern side of the city at ageHa.

Even though Japan loves their fireworks, it’s not really a thing for new years eve in Japan. However, if you are in Tokyo and are just dying to see some, head over to Tokyo Disney (the Miracosta is fantastic by the way) or Sea Paradise in Yokohama. The Minato Mirai area (same as where you can check out the CupNoodle museum and tons of Pikachus in the summer) also puts on a display.

Transportation the Night of New Years eve in Japan

New Years Eve in Japan is the one night a year that trains tend to run a bit longer. If you are in a bigger city like Tokyo, they can go all night – a huge novelty when you are constantly worrying about last-train at nomikais (Japanese drinking parties)! If you are a bit farther out of the city, you still need to be mindful of the time. Check out the train line’s website for their New Years eve in Japan hours. 

What are your New Years’ Eve traditions?

Let me know in the comments. Like this post? Share it on social.

A piece of insight into the person behind the screen – I don’t consider myself “a shopper”. Seriously, like, at all. So while I love clothes shopping in Japan, I tend to have minimalist tendencies, so the more I add clothes to my wardrobe, the more I freak out about how much space they are taking up and regularly go through purges. (To be fair, my friends and charities completely benefit from that!).  I’d rather spend my money on food, good beverages, and experiences.

However, clothes in Japan are so cute and it’s definitely a fun way to kick a rainy day.  If you are moving to Japan or planning on getting “a few things” when you arrive, there are some nuances you should be aware of when clothes shopping in Japan.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

1. Clothes shopping in Japan: Sizes

It’s a well-known fact that the good majority of Japanese people are of a healthy size. In fact, in 2008 a law was passed to keep them that way. As part of yearly check-ups in Japan, waist measurements are taken and if you are above the limit, you are given dietary advice to get back to a healthy size. If companies and local governments didn’t comply, they could be fined! (Not a bad way to keep the national health in check it seems).

That being said, the clothes match that sentiment.  While I’ve seen some Big & Tall shops for guys (there are still sumo wrestlers, after all), plus size isn’t as easy to find for women. The Japanese are not known for their height either (great if you are at a concert and even a bit tall!).  I’m tall, even for American standards (5’9 or 175 cm).  Surprisingly, the average height in Japan isn’t that much different from America (158 cm vs 164 cm, or 5’2 vs 5’4), but you’ll still have to watch out that the cuts fit your shape while clothes shopping in Japan if you are even the least bit tall.

Sizes themselves at boutiques in the “malls” (more on that another time, these aren’t malls like you’ll see in America) tend to be one of two things.  One size fits all or S/M/L. Which, for numbers crushing self-esteem society, that would be great, unless you don’t fit them.  I’ve seen clothes run small and big.

If you are looking for different sizes, the way you say each is “Sサイズ (S size)”, “Mサイズ(M size)” and “Lサイズ(L size)”. Letter – size. Which always cracks me up for some reason. Not clothes, but most shoe sizes are the same way too! Don’t worry, for things like running shoes, you’ll be able to find more fidelity.

A great option, and also a very reasonably priced option, is UNIQLO. They are slowly making their appearance around the world, I’ve stopped in a few countries, but I like the collections in Japan the best.  I love their jeans.  Not only am I tall, but my legs are also pretty long, and it surprises me every time when I can find ones that are long enough!  They also have a wider range of sizes to suit needs.

2. How to ask for the Fitting Room: Etiquette in Japan

Unless you’re in Harajuku looking for some cute cosplays, yes, while clothes shopping in Japan, you most of the time will be able to try things on! Formally a “dressing room” would be called “試着室” (shichakushitsu), however, you will also see it as “フィッティングルーム” which is the katakana word “fitting room”.

To ask, “may I try this on”, you will say “試着してもいいですか？(しちゃくしてもいいですか？Shichaku shite mo ii desu ka?)”. While not correct, I’ve also gotten by with “トライします？” (try shimasu), “can I try?”.

Fitting rooms are similar to what I’ve seen in America, either small phone booths or a wrap around curtain

3. Pro-tip: Wear easy to remove shoes

Regardless of if the fitting room is at “ground level” (the same height as the store floor) or slightly raised, when you go to try on clothes at a store, it’s like a Japanese house, you will remove your shoes before entering the fitting room.  There will a lot of times be a shoehorn to help out but it’s just easier if you can slip in and out, especially if you make a lot of trips to the racks.

Fun fact: the nice attendant will normally swap your shoes around for you if you forget.

4. How to use the Face Covers

If you are dress shopping, especially at nicer establishments, they will have a nylon piece of cloth for you to put over your face so none of your makeup (or other skin products) gets on the clothes. 

If the attendant doesn’t point it out specifically, look for a small tissue-like box and respect the notion. Look for the word “フェイスカバー” (face covers).

They are a square piece of fabric and normally open on two sides, so that it will sit on top of your head and cover your face.

5. Cost of clothes in Japan

There runs the gambit. Very inexpensive options as well as high-end boutiques.  If you are shopping in Tokyo, you can generally tell by the area if you are going to see astronomical prices or bargain deals.  For the style aspect, I think everyone needs something fun from Harajuku.  There’s a fun cosplay store on the second floor that I love to go in, all very reasonable, and very Japanese.

6. How to pay while clothes shopping in Japan

On the note of cost, while it’s becoming more common to accept credit cards in Japan, at smaller shops it is possible to only take cash. So make sure you have enough on hand!

What’s your experience shopping for clothes in Japan?

How long your commute in Japan is can vary greatly depending on if you are in a big city or countryside. Let’s also be realistic, everyone likes to avoid crowded trains in Japan – I don’t know anyone that likes to be packed in by the train pushers! While most people commute in Japan by train, there are also those that drive and (in my opinion) the lucky that can bike or walk. They all have their pluses and minuses and some of these tips can help out with everyday tourists. What’s the best way for commuting in Japan?

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in June of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

Japanese words for Commuting: A Quick Japanese lesson

There are all sorts of ways to talk about commuting in Japanese.  The main kanji for all of this is 通, usually pronounced “tsu-u”, つう (on-yomi or “chinese” reading) or “ka-yo”, かよ (kun-yomi, the Japanese reading).

A good majority of the time you see 通, it will have something to do with commuting. Here’s a few:

• 通い – かよい, kayoi – commuting
• 通学 -つうがく, tsuugaku – commuting to school
• 通勤 – つうきん, tsuukin – commuting to work
• 通勤時間 – つうきんじかん, tsuukinjikan – commuting time
• 通勤手当 – つうきんてあて, tsuukinteate – commuting allowance

通勤時間: Commuting time in Japan

Commuting time in Japan is such an important topic that when looking for housing, it is always a listed characteristic. “6 min walk to X train station”, “40 minute commute to Tokyo”.

Rightfully so, when you figure that the average commuting time in Tokyo is 49 minutes.

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

Commute in Japan by Train

The best part about this? You can combine your love of walking OR biking with it, provided you have the correct gear to get your bike on the train (must be in a bag in Japan).  Its swift, convenient, and you can catch up on your reading.  Make sure while you’re at it to get your commuter pass.  The only downside is there is a cost associated with it, but depending on your company that might not be an issue with the “commuting allowance”.

Some people even take the shinkansen to work! (At least part way)

通勤手当: Commuting allowance in Japan

It should be noted if you are contemplating moving to Japan, that most companies include a “commuting allowance” similar to what they do to promote public transportation in large cities in the US, my reference point.

It is also tax-exempt to a certain point and might be something you take into account when you consider your options for your commute in Japan.

Don’t be a nuisance on your train commute

Every year the Japan Private Rail Association conducts a survey on top train habit annoyances. There are 18 different categories which are further broken down in sub-rankings. The top for 2019 were:

• People not knowing how to sit properly (don’t stretch out, offer your seat to elderly/pregnant, take up only the required room)
• Manners for getting on and off (don’t block the door!)
• Not knowing how to hold and store luggage (if you have a backpack, wear it on your front, put it in the overhead or at your feet but not in others way).

The rankings come out a little bit different every year but it’s important to mind your manners when riding the train.

Avoiding getting smushed on the train in Japan

If you are near a big city in Japan, it’s pretty common knowledge that the trains can get packed. We’ve all seen the videos of the professional train pushers, or oshiya (押し屋), shoving people into crowded trains in Japan.

The Japan Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism (MLIT) has a standard for congestion rate that can help you understand what to expect on your commute in Japan.

• 100% Capacity is defined as everyone can be seated, hold on to a hand strap, or the pillars near the door
• 150% you can still spread and read the newspaper comfortably but it’s getting a bit busier
• 180% you are forced to fold your newspaper but you can still read (anyone else seriously love this is the comparison factor?!). This is the upper limit of “comfort” on your ride
• 200% you’re now very close friends with your neighboring passengers but you could “still read a weekly magazine” (e.g. you can still get your phone)
• 250% you are packed like sardines and can’t move anything except for the movement of the train is your movement

Most congested train lines in Tokyo

How to have the best commute in Japan? Avoid the most crowded trains in Japan! I would also suggest this for those that would like to avoid this during your trip to Japan. The MLIT conveniently rank the top most congested train lines! From a recent study, these are all above the 180% mark, making them not comfortable for reading:

• Tokyo Subway Tozai Line: 199%
• JR East Keihin Tohoku Line: 186%
• JR East Sobu Line: 197%
• JR East Saikyo Line: 185%
• JR East Yokosuka Line: 196%
• Tokyu Denentoshi Line: 185%
• JR East Nambu Line: 189%
• JR East Chuo Rapid Line: 184%
• JR East Tokaido Line: 187%
• JR East Sobu Rapid Line: 181%
• Tokyo Nippori Toner Liner: 187%

Average across the board top 3 most congested metropolitan train systems are Tokyo at 163%, Nagoya and Osaka come in 2nd and 3rd place with 131% and 125% averages.

Commuting by car in Japan

Driving has its place, maybe you need to run an errand after work and don’t want to lug your purchases around by hand (I’m talking to you, craft beer purchases).  There are, however, what feels like a bazillion lights on the “surface roads”, and if you need to (or it’s more efficient time-wise) take the highways to work, the toll fees add up FAST. 

All highways in Japan are tolled. More reason to take the train when you are going places.  Not to mention, gas is expensive, too.

The amount you are allowed to claim for driving a car for your commute in Japan is based off your travel distance so that is something to note as well.

Walking (or running) to work in Japan

Who else loves walking to work? Gets you fresh air and a bit of exercise first thing in the morning and ready for your day.  If you are a convenient distance to your place of work, this is a very common method of commute in Japan. It makes it nice that you can even tie in your training for a road race as part of your commute!

One downside? It likes to rain in Japan, in and out of the rainy season.  Having good rain gear is a must! I prefer a light jacket that I can fold up neatly and carry around that is multi-purpose – i.e. it also works well for running.

With preparation, running is also an option!  Get a good running backpack like the options from Nathan and you’re on your way.

Biking to work in Japan

Biking as a commute in Japan option goes right along with walking to work as an excellent way to mix exercise in with your commute. Make sure you have proper lights and know the rules of the road.  In general, it’s unlawful to ride on the sidewalks. Some exceptions to that are if it is marked for cyclists, or you are younger than 13 or older than 70.

A word of caution past the typical “be aware of your surroundings”. Watch out for tile and grating, it’s super slick in wet weather. I use to ride an elevator through a mountain to the top of my neighborhood (yeah, that was awesome) and there was tile right outside where you used your key to open the door. More than once my bike came out from under me, super awesome with clip-in shoes…

What’s your favorite way to commute in Japan?

Leave me a comment below!

I remember the first time I went to a restaurant in Japan back in 2006.  I was super nervous.  I knew some numbers and how to say hello but not much more.  I was okay with getting in and ordering but had no clue how to ask for the bill in Japanese. How do I leave?!

Eating out in Japan can be stressful for a newcomer.  Especially if you don’t know where to start with language. Top it off that the Japanese language has weird translations to English sometimes.  And add to that some textbooks don’t even seem to cover this topic!

Throw in that Japan can be tricky for non-trusting Americans. We’ve all had those times where were overcharged at a restaurant. Well, what if the restaurant doesn’t do itemized receipts and it’s just a number?  Welcome to Japan.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in August of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

7 Ways How to ask for the bill in Japanese

First, you’ll want to get one of the staff’s attention, for that you can say “sumimasen!”. And don’t feel bad about having to near yell it across the room. You’ll notice this more and more during your trip to Japan. Next, you have a myriad of options for how to ask for the bill in Japanese.

I suppose we have this same thing in English.  Where you can ask for the check or the bill.  Or “cash-out”. Plenty of different words all meaning basically the same thing. With Japanese words though, they don’t translate (especially if you are looking on Google translate) exactly how you’d expect them to.

1. お会計, おかいけい, okaikei

Generally speaking, kaikei gets used more for “account” than it means bill.  Like in 会計士or “kaikeishi” which means accountant. The お, “o” that is added to the front for the word is a common occurrence and is just the honorific to make it more polite. 

However, it always means something with an account (unlike the next option I’ll tell you about). I would wager you’ll hear おかいけい, “o-kai-kei” much more frequently.

This is the one you want to commit to memory. Simply say “Okaikei onegaishimasu” for “the bill, please”.

2. お勘定, おかんじょう, okanjyou

“Okanjyou” (sounds like “o-khan-joe”) is also applicable to bills at a restaurant but I feel like I hear it 30% of the time. The thing with this option? Okanjyou is how you pronounce a lot of Japanese words. Like emotion, or a defending soldier of a castle, or that you are aboard a warship or the act of pouring water on a gravestone (a Buddhist custom).

Obviously, most of those won’t be applicable in your situation unless perhaps you are getting super into the atmosphere at the ninja restaurant in Tokyo. But why chance it? I’d go with option 1.

3. 領収証, りょうしゅうしょう, ryoushuushou

領収証, りょうしゅうしょう, ryoshusho (all long vowels) is very specific to claiming expenses, which is good if you need to do that for business while you are in Japan.  But if you were to say this, they’d get the idea.  There is usually a blank line to be filled out with the customer’s name.

The other thing this can mean? A hand written receipt which we’ll get to a bit later.

4. チェック, chekku

More and more foreign words are making it into the Japanese vernacular. More reason to learn how to read katakana! So if you just say “chekku” with a Japanese pronunciation, that works too.  I’d still go option 1.

5. お愛想 , おあいそ, oaiso

You may have heard that there are varying degrees of politeness in the Japanese language. This word “oaiso” falls into the teinei form or “simple polite” which falls in the middle of the politeness scale. Honestly, I’m horrible at the polite form but if you want to sound fancy, you can go with this option. I have heard it used but it’s rarer.

6. ご馳走様でした, ごちそうさまでした, gochisousamadeshita

These last two are more signals instead of ways to ask for the bill in Japanese. This one you should say when leaving a restaurant anyway, “gochisousamadeshita” which means “thank you for the meal”.

Say this with a look of leaving and you’ll get your bill that way as well. And yes, that is a super tongue twister and took me a long while to be able to say it like a local. Break all Japanese up into the consonant-vowel chunks and you’ll get there!

7. Cross your fingers

OK, honestly, I find this one a little rude, but in a crowded izakaya, it gets the job done. If you make eye contact with the staff from across the room you can use your two pointer fingers to make an “X” and this also means “we’re done”.

How to ask for Separate Checks in Japanese or Going Dutch in Japanese

What if you need to know how to ask for separate checks in Japanese? Please note that this is much easier with small groups and some places won’t let you do it (see next section). Formally, going dutch as we say in English sometimes for splitting the bill can be said as 割り勘 (わりかん, warikan).

Personally, I prefer “betsu-betsu de” (別々で) as it is much more entertaining to say! (The kanji character “々” is used to repeat the preceding character, makes it easier to write double words!).

Hand symbols also work in this case, as you say “betsu betsu” move your hands apart from each other.

The bill itself: Sometimes it’s just a number

Don’t be surprised if you are in some hole in a wall place, trying out some amazing Japanese food, and when you get your “check”, its just a small piece of paper with a value on it instead of an itemized receipt. 

If you are worried about it, just pay attention to the prices when you order.  But trust me, it’s Japan, they are more likely to run after you down the street if you accidentally leave money on the table (yeah, there’s no tipping, and I’ve seen that happen for a few yennies!), then to overcharge you. 

However, as I said.  If you do need something a bit more formal for work record purposes, use option 3 above.

Sometimes you don’t have to ask for the bill in Japan!

At most ramen restaurants, you will pay upfront at a vending machine. While at some sushi-go-round restaurants you’ll have to ask for the bill in Japanese, there are some kaitenzushi that you play a game with your plates and bring your table marker to the front after the fact as your table has already “counted” you!

If you are at what Japan calls a “family restaurant” like Denny’s or even some izakaya, many times your running total will be left at the edge of your table in a smallholder.

If I were to rank in the order of lease intimidating, this would be it!

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There you have it.  More ways than you could possibly need for how to ask for the bill in Japanese.  Start listening for them when you are out and about Japan though.  Which way to ask for the bill in Japanese do you hear the most?

If you haven’t figured out by reading some of my other posts, like my one on AnimeJapan or the Sailor Moon Exhibit that was in Roppongi, or the Sailor Moon Cafe pop-up I like to frequent, or my opening night attendance to the Sailor Moon Dinner Show/Restaurant Shining Moon Tokyo – I’m slightly obsessed with Sailor Moon. When I found out about the Sailor Moon Fan Club in 2016, I had to let my other super fan friends know. That includes you, wider world wide web audience!

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2016 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

I may be obsessed with Sailor Moon

This, my friends, is also why I should be stalking the Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon Official Site on a near daily basis. There is always new news coming out that I am interested in. While Google’s translation feature has been steadily improving over the years since I first went to Japan and leaps and bounds since I first moved there, it also gives me an excellent case on why I need to improve my Japanese. It’s a lot more fun to read in the native language and I love any excuse to work on my kanji reading abilities.

I originally stumbled upon the Sailor Moon Fan Club when I finished watching the final episode of season 3 of Sailor Moon Crystal.  I start purusing the internet for hints to when Season 4 is coming out.  (Four years later, that’s finally becoming a thing in the form of Sailor Moon Eternal coming out September 11th, 2020!)

Where has the Official Sailor Moon Fan Club been all my life?!

Next thing I know, I stumbled upon the first official app for Android! Low and behold, it’s members only. Digging deeper and using all my brain power on translating a LOAD of Japanese, there it is.  Official Sailor Moon Fan Club?!

2016 was the first year that the Sailor Moon Fan Club became available to overseas fans. Fan clubs are actually a substantial thing in Japan but it’s rare that they’d be offered elsewhere.

Now that it has been a thing for six years, every year you renew, you get new incentives.

What is included in the Sailor Moon Fan Club membership?

While it is slightly more lucrative to have membership while in Japan (there are events you can go to), it still has some perks to be a member of the Official Sailor Moon Fan Club, which is actually named “Pretty Guardians”.

1. You get a membership card. If you are renewing, it will have the same number as when you first registered. Each year it consists of a different illustration of the Sailor Moon characters.
2. Each year comes with a different “Nakayoshi” gift which I’m assuming they are using the “close friend” use of the word. in 2016 is was a lip gloss case in the shape of a broach. In 2020 it is Luna Pen Case for cosmetics. It includes a eye shadow pallet and brush inside.
3. If you are a renewing member, you get some additional swag of a bag and file set.
4. Access to the game that original lead me to this discovery.
5. Exclusive rights to special merchandise and events (I’m in Japan! I can GO to those events!!)
6. and more…

When can I sign up and how much?

Each year you have until Usagi’s birthday (Sailor Moon’s name) of June 30th to sign up. It costs 5500 yen or whatever that translates to with the going exchange rate to USD. There is also a 1700 yen fee for shipping all of your goodies.

If you have been in the club for 3 years you are considered a “Prism stars Member” and 5 years “Crystal Stars Member”. What’s that get you? A special bonus!

The first step is registering your email address, after that you can fill out your application, pay, and then wait patiently for your goodies to get to you!

Is membership worth it?

In the grand scheme of things, it is more just for fun. But if you love Sailor Moon trinkets as much as the next super fan, it does give you exclusive rights to different products! My membership is on its way, is yours?

Oh, and if you don’t want to miss signing up in the future? You can auto subscribe!

While Japan has some of the best public transportation in the world (trains and buses are my go to form of transportation), some rural areas are easier to get around by car. You’ve done your due diligence and gotten your international drivers license, but now you’re worried. Is there anything you need to know about using gas stations in Japan?

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in June of 2016 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

Where are the gas stations in Japan?

If you are on regular roads, finding the nearest gas station is going to be best to check Google maps or your map system of choice. Another option is if you’re vehicle has a GPS system you can also search that way. However, there has been a decline of gas stations so it might be prudent of you to plan ahead.

If you are driving on a highway in Japan, there are going to be exorbitant tolls to deal with. As such, you don’t get off the highway or you’ll get dinged more than once. There are GREAT highway rest stops called Michi-no-eki. Total in Japan are nearly 1200 of these “roadside stations” on the highway system. You’ll be able to do nearly everything there, from filling up, to stretching your legs, having a nice meal and even some shopping!

Quick Japanese lesson for use at Gas Stations/ Petrol Stations in Japan

Yes, I’ve added petrol because I feel the rest of the world uses that more often than not! Here are some Japanese words that you might find helpful while using petrol stations or gas stations in Japan:

1. ガソリンスタンド – Gasoline Stand, the actual name they go by in Japan based on English
2. セルフ – Self for “self service”
3. フル – full for “full service”
4. 満タン, mantan, fill the tank
5. 現金で, genkin de, with cash
6. クレジットカードで, Kurejito Kaado de, with a credit card
7. レギュラー, regyura-, regular
8. ハイオク, hai-oku, high octane (this might be my favorite use of katakana)
9. 軽油, keiyu, diesel

Using gas stations in Japan

If you noticed from the above Japanese lesson, you’ll see both full and self service options.

Full Service

More times than not, you’ll probably see full service stations so there will be no need to do anything except pull up and roll your window down to talk to the attendant. Yes, I just said speak Japanese!! Don’t worry I’ve got you covered.

Once entering the station, an attendant will direct you to the proper spot (often, the pumps are hanging from the overhead). Roll down your window and turn off your car. You can then use a combination of the words above. “レギュラー, 満タン, クレジットカードでお願いします” or “re-gyu-ra, mantan, kurejito kaado de onegaishimasu”. “I’d like my tank filled with regular and I’ll pay with a credit card”.

They will normally clean off your windows while you wait (no tipping in Japan, even here) and after running your credit card (as in the above example) or cash, will bring you a receipt. The attendant will normally tell you the best way to get back out of the station as well.

Self Service

If you happen upon a self service center, check the above that you get the correct product for your vehicle. In the below picture, red is regular, yellow is high octane and green is diesel.

Also, there’s most likely a cash option right at the pump. Japan is a mostly cash society and saves some of the stress of wondering if your foreign credit card might not work with the machine.

The first time I used self service was a little nerve racking as I didn’t know what to expect or how it would work but I got through the couple pages of prompts on the pump and was on my way.  If you’ve filled up in your home country, it’s not much difference.

Gas Prices

If you are coming from the states, be ready for some sticker shock. Remember that units of issue are in liters, not gallons. 1 Gallon = 3.78 Liters.

That’s 120 yen A LITER (this picture is a few years old, at update the prices were even higher).  Quick math people! 1 L = 3.78 Gal, so with the going exchange rate that’s $4.32/gal.

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Tokyo Marathon was my second marathon in Japan.  Marathon in every sense of the word. All the big–name races in Japan (at least every one I’ve done or heard about) are raffles, and the Tokyo Marathon lottery is hard to win.  The Japanese are active.  Very active.  Every once and a while you luck out and get “special treatment” for being foreign (like spots open only to foreigners that the Shonan International and Yokohama Marathon offer) but it’s still hard with that even. My first year trying to get into Tokyo I didn’t make it. Here’s what to expect for entrance and what to do when you make it!  

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Why is the Tokyo Marathon so Popular?

We’ll ignore that it takes place in the last megalopolis in the world. What makes the entry process even more competitive? Tokyo Marathon is part of the series of six largest marathons in the world that make up the Abbott World Marathon Majors. If you want to make a name for yourself, you do it at Berlin, Boston, Chicago, London, New York or Tokyo.

Needless to say, that results in some 300,000+ runners jiving for some 37,500 spots, more like 27,000 spots once you get rid of the early entries.

Entry process and the Tokyo Marathon Lottery

Thanks to the coronavirus rattling events around the world and cancelling the 2020 Tokyo Marathon, there’s a good chance that entry for next year will be affected. 2021 Charity runner entries are already being impacted. There is room for the 2020 participants to defer as well and they’ll be announcing more in the coming months.

So here’s hoping for 2022. The process changed slightly since I got in during the 2016 race. Charity runners are the first window to open and that’s normally near the beginning of July. That’s on first come, first serve basis and it’s limited to the amount of people that can get in that way (in 2020 it was 5,000 runners).

Then there is the One Tokyo Premium Entries which I don’t fall under and can’t speak to. For Tokyo Marathon, the overseas entitlement goes to the semi-elite crowd who get a chance at earlier entry. The last with any chance at better odds are Tokyo Residents can get in one a first serve basis. But when you consider there’s millions of residents in Tokyo, those 1,000 stops go fast!

All other entry into the Tokyo Marathon is a lottery which runs the entire month of August. If you get in, you’ll be notified in late September and your entry fee is due in October.

The other option? Which is actually how I got in, find a tour company running a package. Not necessarily the cheapest but if you are flying from overseas, many are all inclusive. I met a lot of groups from Europe!

Lodging in Tokyo the night before

Another benefit of the Tokyo Marathon tour option – The package included hotel for the evening before, breakfast in the morning, as well as transportation to the start line (well, close, I think I still walked a good 2 km but that’s pretty normal for Japan).  

The race starts around 9am so staying outside of Tokyo is an option if you don’t mind the early wakeup call. Just make sure you give yourself ample time as there will be 30,000+ other runners plus spectators making the same trek you are.

Also, don’t be me. However you book your hotel, don’t forget to look it up beforehand. You might want to spend time there! I was informed AFTER the race by some friends that I was in, the Hotel New Otani, one of the nicest hotels in Tokyo!

Leave it to me to not realize part of the price spike was the fact I would be staying in a 5-star hotel. Completely apparent the second I walked in. If I’d known that before hand, I wouldn’t have spent as much time just hanging out at dinner carb-loading (however, the beer and pizza at DevilCraft is spectacular! more on that later).  

Don’t miss out on the race expo

The expo for Tokyo Marathon is the biggest running trade show in Japan. The year I ran it was held at Tokyo Big Sight. Lots of great booths with products, shoes, KT tape. Yes, just like the states, you can get taped for free. My favorite booth was the demonstration of the new 3D printing of shoes to perfectly fit your feet.  Cool concept but I’ll stick with my On running shoes.

One of the nice touches for the Tokyo Marathon Race Expo that it was very personalized. A nice touch for a highly spectated event.

Carb Loading Options

The joke is you run for the carb loading pre- and post-marathon. In the land of sushi, never fear, there’s plenty of Italian and Pizza offerings. However, sushi rice and ramen do fit the carb-loading wickets as well!

One of my top choices in Tokyo is DevilCraft – Craft Brew Pub & Pizzeria Kanda and personally, I’m all about a pre-race beer (it IS liquid bread after all).  The pizza here is amazing.  Chicago deep dish style, yes, in Tokyo, Japan.  They do it up right. There are two other locations in Hamamatsucho and Gotanda if the location in Kanda, the original, is busy.

Morning of the Tokyo Marathon

The tour company had about 400 people staying at the hotel from all over the world and had charter buses to the race front. If you are “on your own”, metros are the best way to go with the streets closing.  The race expo generally has passes you can use similar to a Pasmo or Suica. If you need help with navigating the trains this guide should help.

Before you head to the corrals, there’s a very large pre-race area set aside to check your baggage, find some bananas, water and stretch out.

Pro tip: They start announcing moving to your corals early and if you miss getting there, you are shoved to the back of the pack.  Once the fireworks went off I was surprised how quickly they got people moving.  No wave starts here but everyone, for the most part, seemed very properly placed pace-wise and it worked well!

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Tokyo Weather in February

Average temps on race day are a low of 36F/2C and high of 51F/11C. Perfect running temperature if you ask me! It can be known to rain or snow though so bring some foul weather gear just in case.

Hands down, best crowd support of any marathon

The race supporters were by far the best I’ve ever experienced.  There’s an absurd amount of people that come out to watch, granted, Tokyo is a big city.  Millions is still impressive.  The streets are packed at least three deep the entire course. Designated aid stations contained your typical water, sports drink and bananas, but there were also stations with a definite Japan twist of cookies and umeboshi (picked plums) and various other “delicacies”.  There was also plenty of spectator supported aid from candy to fruit.

Post race celebrations

There is an after party but I didn’t make it due to travelling back home. That didn’t stop me from stopping by my local izakaya for a beer!

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