Japanese is admittedly one of the most complicated written languages to learn in the world. (Speaking Japanese is fairly straight forward but we’ll get to that another time). With tens of thousands of logographic characters called 漢字, kanji, of which, you need to know at least 2,000 to read a newspaper, it’s a lot to learn. There are a lot of language learning programs for speaking, if you are like me and don’t like the idea of being completely illiterate on your travels in Japan, WaniKani is absolutely spectacular.

Bring on new in-depth experiences! And bring on WaniKani, a program based solely on memory science.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

The Art of Memory Science

Around the time I was interviewing for my position in Japan, I stumbled upon Moonwalking with Einstein by Joshua Foer.  It chronicles his ascension to the 2006 US Memory Champion.  First, I didn’t even know that was a thing.  Second, I believe everyone could use better memory skills and I was intrigued.  

My main takeaway from the book was the use of mnemonics. Creating a story, and as ridiculous of one as you can, to help you remember anything. In Joshua Foer’s case, two decks of cards in under 5 minutes.  Insane! The other piece was the relation memory has with the sense of time.  Why does it seem like the work year flies by but you can go away for a weekend and it can last forever?  Your memory is capturing new ideas and distinguishing them from the repetitive nature of work.  It all makes sense!  

Wanikani adds these concepts to another cool memory trick – it is a spaced repetition system. More on that shortly.

Japanese Kanji 101: Where do I start?

Here’s my one plug to help you along (and show you some other areas of my website if you happened to stumble here by accident). You will need a basis of the syllabaries in order to use WaniKani. Japan technically has four methods of writing. Two of these are syllabaries, instead of like the English alphabet, the sounds are in syllables, hence syllabary. Over the years I’ve made myself decks of flashcards for the syllabaries: and you can learn more about katakana and hiragana.  

In searching for a mnemonic-based system to enhance my skills, I came across Tofugu, a language blog that bases much of its information on memory science! Perfect! Thinking of the symbols as a picture and a story will quickly improve reading abilities (though I still, to this day, hate katakana).  Tofugu’s holy grail? WaniKani.

7 Reasons Why Wanikani is Remarkable for Learning Kanji

If you are working on learning Kanji, this may be the best purchase of your life. And I wish they had an affiliate program because I can not praise this enough but low and behold, this is all just coming from me.

1. What is WaniKani?

A memory science-based system that uses mnemonics and spaced repetition system (SRS) to teach you kanji and vocabulary quickly and effectively.  Each piece builds off the next.  You start with radicals, the building blocks of kanji.  Each has its own quirky story that Tofugu has already come up with for you (you can also create your own and include it in the notes section if you want but it’s not necessary).  From there, you learn kanji by combining the mnemonics you learned from the radicals to make a story together that teaches you the meaning and reading. Once you get that, vocabulary words are built the same way.  You get the drift.  Build, build, build!

2. Why makes it efficient?

Many kanji have LOTS of readings.  Typically in schools, you would learn ALL of those readings when first learning the kanji when you might never learn a work that is pronounced that way.  Or it may take you a LONG time to get to that point.  WaniKani teaches you readings as you need them.

The SRS is what REALLY makes it effective.

3. How does it work?

WaniKani is broken into 60 different levels.  Encompassing what would be considered “literate”.  2000 kanji, 6000+ vocabulary words.  Each level has roughly 10 radicals, 30 kanji, and 200 vocabulary words.  First, you learn the mnemonics for that level items and then place them in your “review” queue and the SRS system.

There are 5 levels of progress: apprentice, guru, master, expert, and burn.  Once you’ve “guru’d” 90% of that level’s kanji, you can move on to the next level. Apprentice is when you first learn the item, guru you’re starting to get it, master you have a good feel for it, and expert you basically know it and burn, you never have to see it again because you OWN it.

You’re quizzed in progressively timed intervals and if you get it correct, you go up a notch, get it wrong, you fall back down.  The quiz intervals are 4 hours, 8 hours, 1 day, 3 days, 1 week, 2 weeks, 1 month, and 4 months.  No cheating, you know it or you don’t.

4. Why do I like Wanikani better than other systems?

Anki is an SRS that you can create your OWN flashcard decks for whatever information you care about.  You can also download other people’s “decks” to save yourself time.  This is convenient because, for many Japanese textbooks (Minna No Nihongo is my favorite), people have already created the files for you.  The problem I have with Anki is that you grade yourself on how well you remembered the word and I tend to lie to myself.  Oh! I knew that.  When really I didn’t. Later when I see it again, I have no recollection of the word at all.  WaniKani’s quiz system makes it more effective.

You have to be dedicated.  However, there is an option to go into “vacation mode” which will temporarily suspend the SRS. Don’t do this too long because the science doesn’t lie, you’ll start to forget if you’re gone too long. However, this is great if you just can’t get to studying. Get too far behind and the reviews can be daunting.

5. Kanji learning for adults

WaniKani teaches you easier “looking” kanji first.  口 is a lot easier to recognize than 鴻. Both of those can be pronounced “kou“, by the way. If you are an adult, this part is great. If you think this is a good system for your elementary school kid, it won’t work as well. The assumption is that you know the more difficult-to-grasp concepts, which might have the easiest-looking kanji.

It’s great because it doesn’t throw ridiculously complicated (by stroke number/order) kanji at you right off the bat. Fewer lines, more confidence, more learning.

6. Fast learning

I’ve had Wanikani since 2014. I’m coming clean. The first few years I was religious with it and once I got to a particular point, I started slacking off. Blame the weather and being outside more but probably more so from working on this blog more! If you keep up with your reviews mostly on schedule and answer them mostly correctly (beware of fat-fingering your keyboard or smartphone!!), you can level in about a week. 60 levels, 60 weeks. Just over a year isn’t bad at all!

At the original time of writing this post, I had been working with WaniKani for 2.5 years and very thoroughly could say that I know 800 kanji. Not including the mountains of vocabulary that Wanikani gives you as well. It takes Japanese children till 4th grade (ish) to do that.  That’s what makes this system so impressive.

To further convince you – consider this. Japanese children learn just over 1000 kanji during elementary school with the next 1100 learned through secondary (middle/high) school. That’s 12 years to learn the 2136 most used kanji, or jōyō kanji (常用漢字)! If you keep up with your reviews, you can learn most of that in 1.5-2 years. You will most certainly be in a better position than if you’d followed most traditional learning methods – schools in America don’t get you nearly as far!

7. Wanikani is a great tool to study for JLPT

If you are attempting to tackle the Japanese Language Proficiency Test (JLPT), WaniKani is an amazing tool to help you get there. A quick rundown of the JLPT if you aren’t familiar with it. There are 5 levels of exams, N5 is the easiest and N1 is the hardest. Prior to 2010, there were only 4 levels, with the new system, N3 was added to “bridge the gap” between the easier and hard levels. Kanji isn’t the only thing you need to know obviously, but it definitely helps you!

N5 has about 80 kanji you must master, N4 adds an additional ~180, N3 and N2 each have another approximately 380 kanji with N1 topping out with 1230 more. Since WaniKani is teaching you “as an adult” you end up learning kanji from all 5 levels very quickly as opposed to more traditional methods teaching you in order of level.

Curious where you might stand JLPT-wise? You’ll know all of N5 kanji by level 16 (not fast enough for you? You’ll be 95% there at level 8); N4 is level 27 which seems far but you’ll be 90% there around level 13; N3 and N2 to have mastered all the kanji you will be at level 50. Levels 50 – 60 will just keep adding more to your N1 repertoire. That said, you will need additional resources for N1 as there are around 260 kanji that WaniKani does not teach you.

How much does Wanikani Cost?

To start with – and particularly why I recommend it (reminder, I am NOT an affiliate or anything, this is just coming from me loving the app so much), the first 3 levels are free! In as little as 3 weeks, you could be on the way to knowing almost 100 kanji and over 200 vocabulary words. And you can read them! Give it a try!! Even if you don’t have aspirations of learning Japanese, trying out the system is fun and an interesting way to learn.

Past that, the costs are quite reasonable. At the time of updating this post, you have a choice of monthly ($9/month), annual ($89/year), or springing for lifetime access ($299/once). If it’s around Christmas time, look out for deals as they generally have been giving them at all levels.

Keeping up with your reviews: A word of caution

The reviews may seem slow at first but don’t be fooled, it catches up quickly if you aren’t working on them every day. Expect several hundred at a time to get through as you progress up. Here again, lies the beauty of memory science and the spaced repetition system – you’ll find yourself getting very fast and “knowing” i.e. fluency for the terms.

If it gets out of hand though due to life, along with the pause function I mentioned earlier, there’s also a “reset” button. Which is not for the faint of heart – you can’t undo it! That said, I wanted a clean start to my learning – and figured it couldn’t hurt the refresh – so I restarted at ground zero.

And you know what? I love it, even more, this time around.  

Pin this for later

If you’ve checked out my About page, you know that I’ve done a fair amount of running.  Even if I’m not the fastest, racing has always been fun for me.  I like setting a goal and accomplishing it.  With friends, even better. When I moved to Japan, I needed my fix.  Though much the same, sometimes it’s tricky to figure out how to enter a marathon in Japan. Then you add in the confusion that not all marathons in Japan are what you imagine.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

When a Marathon isn’t a Marathon

First of all, if you see advertisements at the train station or in town, don’t let them fool you.  Sometimes, a marathon in Japan is NOT a marathon.  Which is kind of a plus for all my friends that say they’d rather die than think about running races in Japan, let alone a marathon.  Come on over to Japan, you can run a “marathon” that’s only a 10K.  Hell, I think I’ve seen them as 5K before. 

Not as much of a stretch, the Yokosuka Seaside Marathon, which was my first road race in Japan tops out at a half marathon distance. It’s an out and back course along the water with quite a lot of participants. Bonus when you can walk to the start of the course, makes the morning not so early!

Don’t worry, if the distance you are looking for is a marathon in Japan, there are plenty of those around as well! Including Tokyo Marathon which is included in the six largest marathons in the world that is the Abbott World Marathon Majors. Another that I’ve enjoyed – especially for the views of Mount Fuji is the Shonan International Marathon.

How do you say marathon in Japanese?

If you’ve been reading for while, you know that I love throwing in some basic Japanese to make it easier to research Japan for a trip, or just because you’re interested! The word for marathon in Japan uses the katakana マラソン (ma-ra-so-n). Foreign word, “foreign” syllabary (I explain that more in my post about Japanese written languages).

But as discussed, this more times than not it seems just equates to “road race”. If you are looking for specific details you’ll want to get in the weeds a bit more to make sure what distance you are actually signing up for!

Marathon in Japan: How do I get in?

One of the juxtapositions in Japan: you see a lot of smokers (I was super happy to see they are starting to implement anti-smoking laws ahead of the Olympics), but nearly all of my coworkers I know that smoke, also run.  What I’m trying to say, is whereas in the US the “big” races are hard to get into, all road races in Japan are hard to get into because even those you might not see as runners – run! One caveat to that is if you can find smaller, more local options.

In order to get into many of the various road races and marathons in Japan, you’ll have to look out for raffles. Especially for the “big” races, because if you are coming from overseas, I’d imagine that’s what you are going for.

One good thing if you are looking for an international running trip? To help promote tourism, Japan races tend to have spots set aside for foreigners – first come, first serve. Or have smaller “international lotteries” as they do for the Tokyo Marathon. (You do sometimes pay for the privilege though).

The act of applying itself isn’t always easy. Sometimes it is tricky to find on the website how to actually pay. The way I’ve found is the easiest to sign up (though there are some others), is to go to JTB Sports. They have an English site now which makes it much easier but some races are only on the Japanese side so make two accounts and watch them both. (Google Chrome translate function is your friend).

For the bigger races, and how I got into the Tokyo Marathon, there are often times all-inclusive trips set up by travel agents that include the entry fee into the race.  This option by all means was very expensive, but I also ended up staying in one of the nicest hotels in Tokyo because of it, and was completely worth it.

What’s the cost of a race or marathon in Japan?

I’ve found overall, that the cost of a marathon in Japan and other distances of road races are extremely reasonable compared to how they are getting some places in the states for the big-name races.  For instance, you can nail an “overseas” 2019 Tokyo Marathon entry for 12,800 円. The New York marathon costs nearly $300 and bumps that up to $358 for overseas applicants.

My local half marathon in Yokosuka is around 4800 円 or about $48 USD depending on the current conversion rates.  Back stateside, I always ran the Shamrock Marathon with my friends. The half marathon entry for the Shamrock starts at $80 at the time of writing this and increase to well over a $100 the closer you get to race day. 

On that note, I haven’t seen that methodology in Japan, of increasing the price depending on how close you are to race day. I’m going out on a limb and thinking it is probably because they sell out so fast.

The 5K Ekiden (駅伝, a type of relay race) I run with some of my Japanese friends around the Tokyo Imperial Palace (side note, that is just a great running route for anyone that loves Japanese castles!) is around $20.

The Bling and Course Support

My friends and I used to joke (and even made shirts for it one year) that we ran marathons solely for the bananas at the end. If there was beer – even better! Running a race is surely about getting out there and meeting a goal, whether it be just finishing or hitting a PR. But let’s be honest, it’s also a plus to have all that course support in the form of hydration, food and spectators.

The “hey I did this thing!” t-shirts or technical shirts, participation medals and finisher items don’t necessarily hurt either.

For the course support, you might be surprised at what you are able to partake. My experience with running races and marathon in Japan, you are more likely to see umeboshi than a gel packet. What’s umeboshi? A pickled, very sour plum which lots of salt to help with you electrolytes. You’d think that would be a bit odd to work on while running – watch out cause sometimes there are pits! – but it works and delicious. You’ll see other “real food” as well like nuts and bananas.

For the marathon in Japan I’ve run, that each had about 30,000 participants, there were technical shirts as part of your race packet and you also received a finisher medal. Fun fact – some of the races in Japan will automatically send you your race packet so there is no reason for you to go to the expo and pick up your bib number and other goodies. To that end, sometimes there isn’t an expo so it just makes it easier for pick up anyways.

Possibly the nicest touch was during the Shonan Marathon in Japan, you could get your race time ON YOUR SHIRT! Being my best personal record (or PR as we like to say) to date, you bet I got that done! For the Tokyo Marathon, we received towels as our finisher items.

Spectator support is also very high in Japan which makes the experience of running a marathon in Japan that much better. I think for the Tokyo Marathon I spent the entire time high fiving people as I ran by.

What about after parties for races in Japan?

Sadly, post-race provided beer like you see at many of the races in America (or at least the ones I like to do) isn’t generally a thing.  However, a lot of times you will see coupons to promote local bars, and beer in Japan is generally pretty cheap cost-wise if you go with the big name companies. If all else fails, there are always convenience stores to grab a quick drink from if you don’t want to be sweaty in a izakaya. 

Instead of a race sponsored after party, after our yearly ekiden (4 person relay around the palace in Tokyo), my running team likes to go out for a nomikai (drink party). Before that though? We hit a 銭湯 or Sentou, which is a public bath house to soak after our hard work. I’ll talk about the differences between an onsen and sentou in another post but the concept is the same. Take a shower to wash off and then dip in a nice warm bath.

For the party part of it, we like to get monjayaki which is Tokyo’s version of the popular okonomiyaki.

What’s your next race?

Have you run a race in Japan?  What was your experience?  If you haven’t, are you thinking about it? Let me know in the comments!

Money. It makes the world go round.  But, do you need to exchange money abroad? In Japan, it’s very much a cash society. So what’s the best way to exchange money in Japan? I’ve had a few, let’s say fun, experiences to exchange money around the world and I can say that Japan is much easier!

My first time abroad was in 2000 for World Youth Day.  It was also my first time really traveling without the parental units. 10 of my close friends from Youth Group, our youth leaders, and 2.5 million other Catholic youth (youth being subjective).  A few days in Assisi (an adorable Italian town) and then off to Rome (both of which I need to get back to). What’s that have to do with money abroad, you ask?  Back then, it was “thou shalt have traveler’s checks”. The world’s come along since then but there are definitely still nuances.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in August of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission from you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

Should I exchange money in Japan? Or ahead of time?

While you are doing your due diligence researching your trip to Japan, you may be wondering when you should exchange money in Japan. From what I’ve experienced, you are going to get your best rate in the country you are visiting.  However, it’s important to have a bit of cash on hand in case you need it immediately upon arrival. It doesn’t hurt to exchange a little, to begin with as a reserve in case you are rushed on the far side.

That said, once you arrive in Japan, there is a currency exchange in the airports that usually have much better rates than what I’ve seen at the International airports in America. You will also find that your hotel may offer to exchange money in Japan, but the rates are generally not as good as you will find at the currency exchange or banks.

To get your trip started off right, I would suggest exchanging some money when you first get to Japan. Or you can go with my favorite method for getting cash, read on!

Getting Japanese Yen from ATMs

Generally speaking, I like to use local ATMs to retrieve currency.  My bank picks up the ATM fees and the exchange rate is usually on par, if not better than I can find at a money exchange.  Any 7-11 in Japan will take American debit cards for retrieving Japanese yen. You can also keep a lookout for Japanese post offices, their machines also take foreign cards. While it wasn’t always the case, other Japanese convenience stores are accepting foreign debit cards now as well. I still tend to stick to the tried and true 7-11 though.

That being said, make sure you have an idea of what the currency exchange rate is!  You don’t want to accidentally put a few too many zeros or a few too little depending on where you are. 

I completely made that rooky mistake trying to use an ATM in Korea.  Eventually, I found an exchange at the Palace entry of all places! I was so happy, you have no idea, I was on scraps till that point! 

You also want to check beforehand what the cost of things is.  In some places, you may need to figure on $20 USD for a meal, where others it might cost you $2.  Best to not have to pay a fee to switch that money back to your currency.

In Japan, while it shifts back and forth, you can usually use the rough estimate that 100 yen = 1 dollar. The prices for goods are also similar. You can find ramen for around 1000 yen, or $10 USD. There are many chain sushi-go-round or kaitenzushi that are 100 yen a plate! If you are looking for a nice kaiseki meal though or a nice wagyu dinner of Kobe beef, you’ll need around 10,000 yen if not more.

Exchanging American Money to Yen in Yokosuka

In my local town of Yokosuka, home of American’s largest Navy base outside of American, there is definitely a need to exchange money in Japan for Japanese yen. For instance, to initiate a lease, you often need to have 1-month rent, 1-month agent fee, 1-month “key fee”, and 1-month for your deposit. IN CASH. Just a little bit higher than limits on ATMs.

While one of the banks on base can take care to exchange money in Japan, there are better rates out in town. My top pics (for American dollars to Japanese yen) to exchange money in Japan are:

• Lucky Exchange
• JP (Japan Post) Bank

Fun fact about Yokosuka, there are actually many restaurants in town that accept American bills!

Not everyone is good at their job

I have never had this issue in Japan, but I still like to keep this anecdote in the back of my head when I’m traveling. Make it a game to keep on your toes.  I couldn’t find an ATM at first my last time I landed in France so I went to the currency exchange.

The problem was, I only had yen on me. The teller working apparently was very unfamiliar with yen (or was just surprised an American was using that to get Euros?).  What they should have exchange money for a few hundred euros, they tried to give me twenty.  Um, no. 

I took my money back (the look on her face!) and eventually found an ATM.  So be aware of not only your exchange rate but whatever money you are switching exchange rate, especially when you are jumping countries.  The “big name” currency exchange rates will be displayed for you.  Use your time in line to double-check what you should be getting back.

You don’t always need money abroad but you do in Japan

Japan is very much still a cash society.  Don’t risk thinking you can use a card and getting frantic at an amazing restaurant.  New Zealand on the other hand I pulled out the equivalent of a few hundred USD and didn’t need cash at all. Ask friends or check the internet so you know what to expect.

Japan is a very safe country and it’s not uncommon for people to carry a large amount of cash around on them. I usually get the full allotted amount from my bank when I use the ATM to exchange money in Japan. That being said, it’s always good to be cautious. Men – that means keeping your wallet in your front pocket (and in Japan, there are lots of coins so you definitely would benefit from a coin wallet). Ladies – I like a good cross-body purse (my new favorite is this one from Vera Bradley) or keeping my wallet tucked in an inside pocket of my Osprey day pack.

As ATMs are prevalent- there are over 20,000 Seven Bank (the 7-11 ATMs) and similarly, for Japan Post – this is really the best option to exchange money in Japan. So you don’t need to get traveler’s checks. There is a slightly better rate for them at hotels I’ve seen, but hotels are usually my last resort. You can find better rates elsewhere!

Special Bills in Japan

That being said, if you are interested in collecting different money, sometimes your best bet IS in your home country.  At least for the bill side of the house.  Coins, like my dad always brought us from his travels, you can get in-country. 

The 2000 yen note is like a $2 bill back in the States.  They are hard to find (unless you are in Okinawa I hear) and people collect them.  If you exchange money for yen in the States, at least from my friends that have done it, they are chockablock full of them.

Do you have other tips to exchange money in Japan?

Cooking classes have been taking off recently as a must-do while traveling.  It makes sense.  You go to a foreign country, love the food, and want to take it home with you.  However, let’s be honest. Our foreign food back home is completely adopted by our pallets! What better way to get the real deal than to learn it in-country and recreate it yourself!? BentoYa Cooking took it one step farther with their Japanese cooking class in Tokyo on vegan sweets made with Mikawa mirin (三河みりん).  It included a special presentation that taught the specifics behind a very unique ingredient!

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in December of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission from you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

Sumiya Bunjiro Brewery Presentation

The future owner of the Sumiya Bunjiro Brewery Co., Ltd. was present to give us the history and process of making their Sanshu Mikawa Mirin (三州三河みりん).  She also gave us background on the many various uses.

While the company was started in 1910, according to ancient Japanese text, mirin has been around for five hundred years. During the Edo period (same time as all of the castles), it was an expensive beverage.

What is Mirin?

Mirin, a sweet rice wine, is a versatile seasoning that can add sweetness and texture to Japanese dishes. Similar to sake but with slightly lower alcohol content and higher sweetness. That sweet flavor comes from how it’s made, not because there is sugar added to it.

Though originally it was used as a beverage, eventually it began being used as a seasoning in Japanese cooking. It can be cooked down to make a lovely sweetener (think honey but not as thick).  We sampled two types of mirin that the company produces and I must say, I’d drink them!

The real deal: Mikawa Mirin (三河みりん)

Mikawa is located in the eastern part of Aichi Prefecture. It has suitable conditions for brewing Mirin and has the largest number of brewers in Japan. Mikawa Mirin (三河みりん) is made from glutinous rice, rice malt, shochu and goes through a single distillation process. The Sumiya Bunjiro Brewery Co., Ltd. makes it with the traditional manufacturing method. This takes nearly two years to complete for the high-quality glutinous rice to be brewed and matured.

Sanshu Mikawa Mirin (三州三河みりん) has about 14% alcohol and is a deep amber color. The generic name for this “top-level” product is Hon-Mirin (本みりん). Hon means “true” or “origin”.

The impostors: Mirin and Mirin-like seasonings

The main difference between hon-mirin (which is what we used for this Japanese cooking class with the Sanshu Mikawa Mirin 三州三河みりん) and mirin, is that straight mirin uses sake instead of shochu in their ingredients. Because of this and other process differences (only a few months of processing), they tend to have a lighter coloring.

There are industrially made mirin on the market that has more additives and is not as “pure” as traditional methods. Industrial made is not as painstakingly made and is quickly brewed in a few months’ time. They still have similar alcohol levels but aren’t as high quality.

To make it even more complicated, during and after the war, liquor laws made it difficult for grocery stores to sell true mirin. Additionally, due to the high cost since rice was scarce. As such, “煮切り” (nikiri) came into existence, which is boiled down to reduce the alcohol content. There is also “塩みりん” or “salt mirin” that adds salt to bring down the alcohol content. These are referred to as “mirin like” products or みりん風調味料 (mirin fuchoumiryou) and are highly chemical seasonings with little (1%) or no alcohol.

If you are in the market for mirin, watch out to get the real deal! Check your ingredients -if there is added sugar, it’s not real mirin. If there isn’t alcohol, it isn’t real mirin.

How to use Mirin

There are many uses for mirin and it is a great condiment to have in any kitchen. Especially if you like to make japanese food.

1. Gives a gloss and luster to coatings better than that of sugar — think teriyaki sauces!
2. Draws out flavors of a dish
3. Can be used to tenderize meats (again, with your teriyaki)
4. Eliminates odors on smeller food items
5. Adds a mild sweetness
6. Is another way to add umami (miso can be used as a “secret” ingredient for that too.)

The company has a few different authentic mirin and the class used Sanshu Mikawa Mirin (三河みりん) as the sweetener in a few dessert items.

In dishes that call for honey, you can use mirin as sweetener instead, the class suggested.

BentoYa Online Japanese Cooking Classes

Since attending this Japanese cooking class, a lot has happened in the world. Including the COVID-19 pandemic. As such, like many others, BentoYa had to reevaluate its business model. Which included moving to online courses. And while it’s more fun to have the hands-on experience, now more people (i.e. those of you not in Tokyo!) can enjoy these vegan sweets (and their other vegan recipes) from the comfort of your home.

Their Japanese cooking class cost about 3300 yen. If you are looking for some quick and simple recipes, they also have a YouTube channel to check out.

BentoYa Japanese Cooking Class in Tokyo: Vegan Sweets made with Mirin

One nice thing about this Japanese cooking class in Tokyo? No prep work! I really love how there are community kitchens to use.  There are three cooking stations in this room similar to this one as well as the front display where the instructor normally is.

Making Mirin Pudding

This is a vegan class so we didn’t use any animal products.  It was interesting to learn about the different things you can use instead.  And the end product is so tasty.  This style of pudding is quite common as a dessert in Japan.  Simple and not too sweet.

Kanten (寒天) is a natural gelatinous product that comes from algae.  It is a great substitute for gelatin in the pudding.

Kudzuko (葛粉, sometimes Kuzu in English) starch comes from a root plant called Kuzu.  It’s an exceptional thickener.  I was surprised how fast it could take effect!  Sometimes brewed as a tea as it is actually very good for upset stomachs!

The sweetness comes from boiling down the Mirin.  You cook for a few minutes to evaporate the alcohol and turn it into more of a syrup consistency.  We also add it to the top to give it that sheen.  Presentation taught so much!

You cook the ingredients all together for a few minutes to thicken it up and you’re done! Chill it for a bit in the freezer if you want it right away, else in the fridge works too.

Don’t forget to add the bit of sweetness on top!

A quick and easy Japanese lunch

As every class with Bentoya Cooking ends with trying out your creations, we also made some onigiri with soy meat.  Can’t just eat sweets for lunch! Well, you could, but your waistline might not like it.  However, cooking with mirin, there is no added sugar for all the sweetness so it’s actually healthier!

This soy product starts out dried, you cook it in water to reconstitute it and then ring out the excess water before cooking up and adding flavoring.

Hint for making onigiri.  Use saran wrap. Keeps your hands less sticky with the rice.  I’m starting to get better at them if I do say so myself! Another pro tip: don’t put too much filling or rice, a smaller portion is much easier to deal with!

I love how easy a good miso soup is.  Some homemade dashi made with seaweed for umami instead of fish flakes, add some leak and onion to it, drop in some miso and you are good to go!

The finished product! いただきます! Itadakimasu!  Thank you for the food, let’s eat!

Looking for another Japanese cooking class in Tokyo?  Check out my other experience with BentoYa Cooking.

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高知城, Kochi Castle, is the only of the 12 original Japanese castle that remains ALL of it’s original Edo period architecture in the main citadel. Like the other castles, this one was also finished in the 1600s and is located on Shikoku, the fourth-smallest of Japan’s main islands. Kochi is a cute oceanside town with old history abounding. Not only is it cute, but it is also unique. Lord Yamauchi Kazutoyo didn’t just have military in the castle keep, it was also a palace.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in September of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission from you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

The best way to approach Kochi Castle

The best way to approach Kochi castle is through the Otemon Gate.  If you drove (don’t drive, it’s Japan! I kid, Shikoku is actually easier by car and a little easier as it’s more country so there seemed to be more parking. Trains are still easy to get around on though! Also, Koichi’s train station is beautiful), you’ll have to walk over to the gate but it’s also the way to go up to the castle so you shouldn’t miss it.

The Otemon gate is important because when the town was burned to the ground by a fire in the early 1700s, it was the only thing to remain (though it itself had some of its own work done in the 1660s). So if you are looking for 400 years of history, it’s in this structure.

Kochi Castle Main Keep – 3 or 6 floors?

After they were burned in the fire, the main castle keep at Kochi Castle along with the rest of the surrounding buildings took TWENTY FIVE years to rebuild. They were finished in 1753 to match the original specifications and managed to (mostly) avoid being torn down during the Meiji Era restoration efforts to remove all of the castles or any other disasters. Why mostly? Because the good majority of the castle buildings were removed.

While the keep or donjon may look like it is 3 stories, the interior is actually 6 floors.

Kochi Castle Unique amongst the 12

Kochi Castle is the only Japanese castle that has the Lord’s reception suite (how the pamphlets, in this case, decided to translate “御殿” or “palace”) still intact. Even amongst the 12 original castles still remaining in Japan.  It’s unique that the lord’s residence was among the military function of the keep.  Hence why it’s all there. This castle is more house than military in some aspects and you can see how the rooms went together.  It’s amazing.  (This one almost beat out Matsuyama as my favorite).

But what’s one palace when you can have THREE? The ni-no-maru (second bailey) which is the flat land before you head across the bridge to honmaru, had a palace as well. As did san-no-maru or third bailey. Those unfortunately were all disassembled during the Meiji restoration, but if you want to see a palace, check out Kawagoe, Kakegawa, Nagoya, or Nijo. There is also an imperial residence in Nikko.

As you can see from this picture, you get a sense of the minimalism Japan is famous for.  There wouldn’t have been much furnishings in these rooms.

I thought it was a little sad to learn when they turned it into a park in the Meiji period that they destroyed all the buildings in the 2nd and 3rd bailey. But the museum inside Kochi Castle has models of what it probably looked like and the main citadel more than makes up for it.

Kochi Castle Important Cultural Property

There are 15 buildings at Kochi Castle that are considered important cultural properties.

• 天守 – tenshu, main keep
• 懐徳館 – Kaitokukan, the name for the honmaru goten or palace
• 納戸蔵 – Storage Room
• 黒鉄門 – Black Iron Gate
• 西多聞 – Nishitamon
• 東多聞 – Higashitamon
• 詰門 – Closed Gate
• 廊下門 – Corridor Gate
• 追手門 – Pursuit Gate
• 天守東南矢狭間塀 – Tenshu Southeast Yasama Wall
• 天守西北矢狭間塀 – Tenshu South west Yasama Wall
• 黒鉄門西北矢狭間塀 – Kurotetsumon Nishikita Yasama Fence
• 黒鉄門東南矢狭間塀 – Kurotetsumon Southeast Yasama Fence
• 追手門西南矢狭間塀 – Otemon Southwest Yasama Fence
• 追手門東北矢狭間塀 – Otemon Tohoku Yasama Fence

Kochi’s whaling history

One recommendation for travel in general, and definitely in Japan, look for themes when you go places.  In Kochi, there were whale tails everywhere.  Random statues and nuances that just make you go, “huh”.

Apparently, Kochi was a whaling town and there was a display in one of the wings of the castle about it.  Though quasi gruesome and not to my liking, it’s a part of history and makes you respect what people went through to get food.  The display, though cartoonish, was very intense.  Not something you see every day.

Stamp Rally

Don’t forget to get your stamp for the 100 finest castles in Japan stamp rally. What’s that? The Japan Castle Foundation (日本城郭協会, Nihon Jōkaku Kyōkai) choose 100 Famous Castles in Japan (日本百名城, Nihon Hyaku Meijō) followed by another 100 after that!

As a goal-oriented person, it’s fun to check the castles off my list. But I would also just do it for the cute stamps! I recommend getting the books ahead of time. Some of the castles gift shops carry them but it’s not a guarantee. Yes, they are in Japanese, that gives it some clout I think!

TeamLab Kochi Castle Illumination

One thing I’m still sad about, especially if you know how much I love teamLab’s two Tokyo exhibits teamLab borderless and teamLab planets, is that teamLab did an exhibit in Kochi Castle! It was just a few months after I was there. Here is my plug for illuminations around Japan, something to keep in mind if you are traveling in winter! While teamLab may not do another Kochi Castle Illumination (they did both in 2018 and 2019!), that’s not to say there won’t be a different one.

Getting to Kochi Castle and the Kochi Information Center

If you are like me, you are going to be blown away by Kochi’s train station, it is BEAUTIFUL – but don’t get too distracted, Kochi Castle is too! There is an amazing tourist information center next to it where you could probably spend a few hours just there (even if you researched a lot for your japan trip, I highly recommend always checking out the information booths!). 

Inside the information center is a reproduction of the set of a popular period drama depicting the life of a samurai hero. You can dress up and walk around the set, taking photos. If you need some inspiration about Japan, there are plenty of shows and documentaries about Japan.

The castle is an easy 20-minute walk from Kochi Station, or you can take the tram. But be aware you’ll have to transfer.

The easiest way to Kochi Castle by train to get to Kochi Station is to take a limited express train from Okayama Station. It takes about 2.5 hours so make sure you get some onigiri, or a train bento and maybe a beer ;). I will break from my train love a little in Shikoku because it is a bit easier to get around by car in Shikoku but trains are still a good option, they just don’t run as often as larger areas of Japan.

As with all the castles, I have tons more research in my notes, so if you have questions, let me know in the comments below! I’ll try and point you in the right direction.

Other things to do in Kochi

This prefecture is not lacking in things to see and do!  Local to Kochi are a few things I’ll highlight.

日曜市 (literally, “Sunday City”) is a 300-year-old market that happens every, you guessed it, Sunday. Toted as one of Japan’s largest and stretches out over a kilometer from the Otemon Gate with hundreds of stalls to explore. There is also a smaller one on Thursday leading down to the water from Kochi Castle if you were to head to Yamauchi Jinja.

On your way to Yamauchi Jinja, you’ll notice a long building on the side of the road. This is the former Yamauchi Residence Shimoyashiki Nagaya Exhibition Hall (旧山内家下屋敷長屋展示館). A Shimoyashiki is the “suburban” residence of the daimyo or lord. Remember, three palaces were not enough! What remains is the lodging for the guards. Inside there is a display of various ship designs. Great for yours truly naval architecture love.

The original shrine where Yamauchi Jinya stands burned down during the war but afterwards in the 1970s was rebuilt to enshrine the Yamauchi line that ruled at Kochi castle. To be fair though, it’s very common for shinto shrines to be rebuilt every so often, even Izu, Japan’s most important, is rebuilt every 20 or so years so that the traditional building style can be kept alive but also as part ritual.

Another great thing for Kochi? They have a massive yosakoi festival in the summer. One of my things still to see. While you are walking around the city, you may notice a bright red vermillion bridge. A good photo spot it is the setting of a love story between a local monk and a young woman. It also is mentioned in some of the yosakoi songs.

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Welcome to Himeji Castle 姫路城. Nicknamed the White Heron (or white egret, apparently they couldn’t decide on a white bird…) Castle for its coloring. She (are castles like ships? Female? They are now!) is the 6th in my quest to see all 12 of the original Japanese castle. Himeji castle is, in fact, the largest castle in Japan, located in Hyogo Prefecture in Himeji City.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in October of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission from you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

A bit of history and designations

Himeji Castle dates back to the early 1300s when it started as a fort atop the hill.  Ripped down and built into a castle around 1346, it was again redone… have you been reading my castle posts in order?  Yup, you guessed it.  Around 1600.  It was later expanded on and has remained the same for 400 years.  Himeji City was burned to the ground during WWII but the castle survived.  She also survived some really massive earthquakes.  Most importantly, she didn’t get ripped down during the Meiji period as so many castles did.

Of the 83 buildings that make up the castle grounds, 74 are designated as Important Cultural Assets. SEVENTY FOUR! That’s insane. The other castles maxed out at 11 or so.  That equates to 11 corridors, 16 turrets, 15 gates, and 32 earthen walls.  Himeji Castle is not just an important cultural property though, it’s also a UNESCO world heritage site which was designated in 1993.  Japan’s first. Translation: Himeji Castle is Japan’s most visited Japanese castle.  With good reason!

And remember, that’s 83 buildings that are still existing at Himeji Castle. There used to be so many more!

The approach to Himeji Castle

Himeji Castle awes you the second you pull into Himeji Station. Generally speaking, when I get off the train somewhere, I’m trying to figure out which exit to leave from.  Not necessary here. Straight view of the castle as soon as we pulled in on the shinkansen.

Once you walk up the street from the station (or there are buses), you’ll come to this bridge and gate. The gate is called Sakuramon, so the bridge is Sakuramon bashi (bashi is the Japanese word for bridge). With the castle looming in the background, it’s a beautiful sight.

The moat? If you are visiting on the weekends, there are boat trips you can take along in. There aren’t very many though so get your tickets early.

Bring your walking shoes for this one (I love my Teva sandals for travel).  The overall castle is nearly a mile at the widest points in each direction.

The Main Keep

Unlike Kochi Castle, Himeji Castle’s main keep is all about the military function.  You have to remember with Japanese Castle keep’s that the tiers don’t always match the floors. So whereas from the outside it looks like five tiers, the inside has a basement and six floors – lots of stairs to climb!  If you were an invading army, there are all sorts of defenses INSIDE as well as the fact that you had to make it all the way to the keep in the first place!  武者隠し (mushakakushi) are little hiding holes throughout that you could be attacked from.

There were also platforms on some of the floor that I originally thought someone must stand on to give a speech or something.  The ceilings were super high, seemed to make sense.  In actuality, they are so that people could throw rocks out the windows at invading armies. Don’t forget the death holes for shooting guns and arrows.  (Actual name is loophole).

When you go inside, you’ll take off your shoes and carry them with you.  They give you plastic bags to use as you’ll leave at a different spot than you came in at.  The stairs that you walk up to enter the castle have, of course, been there forever and there’s a sign to call your attention to the fact that samurai and lords have walked up them barefoot just like you.  Kind of fun.

The first floor is nearly 6000 sq. ft. (?!?!?) with follow on floors slowly getting smaller until the top floor is “only” 1240 sq. ft. That’s twice as big as most people’s apartments in Japan! You’ll get to walk through the whole thing.  Its’ really neat with the lighting they have throughout.  It’s also surprising how tall the ceilings are.  The whole keep is just over 150 feet tall. The fact that they were able to make such a structure with just wood is amazing to me.

The Princesses Bailey

Sadly, the palaces are no longer in existence. Neither the main palace for the Lord or the one he made when his daughter married. If you want to see a palace, head to the Imperial Palace in Kyoto, Nijo Castle, Kawagoe Castle, Kakegawa Castle, or Nagoya Castle (though that one is a reconstruction). There’s also an imperial villa in Nikko. You can still see the long corridors that made up the princess servant’s living quarters though.  These are incorporated into the walls protecting the palace.  The princess also had her own quarters as a “retreat” or some such at the end of the corridors and this still is there.

How Much time do you need for Himeji Castle?

Give yourself at least 2 hours if it’s not busy, but lean towards a half day.  Probably more if it’s busy.  There is so much to see! During Cherry Blossom season they limit the number of tickets to 15,000 so be wary of that too. And because they get so busy, it’s like Disney, where they give you wait times to the ticket counter and the castle keep! If you get there late in the day and there are long waits, keep in mind that your ticket is only valid for the day you purchased it.

Also you can only purchase tickets to Himeji Castle at the ticket counter the day of visit. Tickets for Himeji Castle are 1,000 yen for adults at the time of writing this. You can add on the neighboring Japanese garden for 40 yen more!

One of the times I was at Himeji during the summer. It can be brutally hot, and with such large grounds to walk around in broad sunlight, please make sure that you have ample water supply. Luckily it’s Japan and you can find vending machines all over. But, seriously, drink up, lots of people were getting heatstroke that day!

Part of the reason you should stay in Himeji the whole day, is for the beautiful night views of Himeji Castle. Stop by an izakaya and then see it after dark. The paid portion of the grounds closes around 5 pm but you can see the unpaid version later. At different times of the year they have events there.

Getting your Castle Stamp

Don’t forget your stamp for the 100 finest castles while you are here! The 100 Famous Castles in Japan (日本百名城, Nihon Hyaku Meijyou) were chosen by the Japan Castle Foundation (日本城郭協会, Nihon Jōkaku Kyōkai) and include castles all over the country, including the 12 originals.

The stamps make for a fun souvenir as well as a record of all the castles you have been to. There is a guidebook that you can get to keep them in (and turn them in for a prize if you get them all!).

How to get to Himeji Castle

From any of the big tourist spots (Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto) it is an easy shinkansen ride to get to Himeji, I love all trains in Japan! From Shin Osaka Station to Himeji Station take the Hikari Shinkansen in around 35 minutes. Taking the JR Tokaido/Sanyo Shinkansen from Kyoto to Himeji takes about an hour.

The longest is going to be from Tokyo. If you can take the Nozomi shinkansen, from Tokyo to Himeji is 3 hours. On the JR Rail Pass? It’ll be about 3.5-4 hours. I’d suggest going straight there and then making your way back to other sites in Kyoto and Osaka (if you are doing the “main circuit” as I like to call it). Or keep going from Himeji to some of the other 12 original castles of Japan. I’ll be working on full itinerary options for this soon! Make sure to sign up for the newsletter to keep posted.

The view from the shinkansen platform of the lead into the castle is very unique. You’ll take the north exit and it’s about a 1 km walk to get to Sakuramon bridge to get into the castle complex. Speaking of, there are tons of paths and parks around the castle to track your steps.

Is Himeji Castle Worth it?

Yes! Especially if you are interested in Japanese history and of course, Japanese castles. I will say though Himeji Castle is amazing, she’s not my favorite. Matsuyama Castle in Shikoku still holds that one.  Sometimes the crowds are right but it’s important to stick to your guns if you have a differing opinion.  That’s what makes the world interesting.

All that said, please, if you are only in Japan for a little while, go see Himeji Castle.  You won’t be disappointed. 

What is there to do near Himeji Castle?

One the castle grounds, you can visit the Edo period-style Kokoen gardens. You can get a combined entrance pass for both the castle and the gardens, adding the Japanese Gardens is all of 40 yen more! While not one of the top three gardens like the one in Okayama, they are beautiful nonetheless! In fact, Japanese gardens are very often a nice side quest to Japanese castles.

If you decide to walk to the castle, you can approach down the main drag, Otemae Street (which has lots of statues – Japan loves statues) or the Himeji Ekimae shopping street (with an arcade). Great way to keep out of the sun on those hot days but also good if it is raining!

Have you tried the rather simplistic but super delicious Japanese food, 玉かけめし (Tamakakemeshi or sometimes as tamakakegohan)? It’s a raw (don’t worry, they are safe!) egg on top of warm rice. Don’t knock it till you try it. Tamagoya across from the Sakuramon bridge has it. There is also a Cremia stand there in the summer, the best soft serve I’ve found in Japan.

While you are in Hyogo Prefecture, don’t forget to head over to Kobe for some Kobe Beef.

If you have been following along for a while, it should come as no surprise to you that I love Japanese castles! If you’ve missed the articles and IG posts until now, you may have seen the running tally of how many I’ve been to on the home page for Kristen Abroad. There are so many Japanese castles to visit, where do you start? While there are many not in this category I’d also recommend, if you have limited time for Japanese castle exploration, you really should start with 12 original Japanese castles remaining.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in January of 2019 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

現存12天守 Quick Japanese Lesson

While it’s time-consuming thanks to my level of Japanese, I love doing research in Japanese. Though I still owe a debt of gratitude to Wanikani and the Minna no Nihongo series, along with so many other Japanese resources ( including my Japanese sensei at conversation classes)!

The 12 original Japanese castles are actually referring to the original Japanese castle keeps which in Japanese are usually referred to as 現存12天守. And because Japanese fascinates me, you get a quick lesson ;).

• 天守 = Tenshu, or castle tower. This term refers to the main castle keep as in Japanese castle design there are normally other towers on the complex as well. It is also sometimes referred to as “天守閣” or tenshukaku.
• 現存 = Genzon or “existing”. While that is true, they ARE existing, the English makes that somewhat confusing as there are other “Existing” Japanese castles that have been more recently re-constructed.

That said, when you see “the existing 12 Japanese castle keeps”, in Japanese they are referring to the Edo-period and older castles.

National Treasures, Important Cultural Properties, and Other titles

Most of the 12 have multiple designated titles of importance. Japan likes lists of 3 and 100. They all are considered as part of the 100 finest castles of Japan but there’s more that make these the Japanese castles to visit.

We’ll start with world clout. Himeji Castle was designated as Japan’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nationwide, five of the 12 are considered National Treasures: Hakone, Himeji, Inuyama, Matsue, and Matsumoto. I like to call Inuyama the most pretentious of the bunch. In the other 11 castles, there is a reference to all 12 castles (usually in pictures lining the overhead of the lookout area of the castle). Inuyama? Just shows the five that are designated as National Treasures.

The other 7 are designated “only” as Important Cultural Properties. However, most all are part of the さくら名所100選 (100 Famous Sakura Places – there’s actually 134 locations, we like lists of 100 but they aren’t always exactly 100).

Which is the oldest of the 12 original Japanese castles

I think the funniest is that at least three of them claim “I’m the oldest” somewhere on their property. Keep a lookout for signs, the first one I was at that I saw “oldest” I was so excited. Then I saw it at another and was like, wait a second…

Inuyama is one of them. Hence back to my pretentious joke.

If you go solely by when they were originally made Bitchu-Matsuyama wins hands down with an 11th-century build. However, that was on a neighboring mountain and they moved it to its current location later. The keep itself, the important part of the “which is older” at Bitchu-Matsuyama is younger than the others.

You also have the matter that regardless of when they were originally built, most had at least some fire or damage from war over the years. If you factor in what and how much was rebuilt and when, it starts to get tricky.  And of course, are we talking about the castle or the keep? Which is where I think the good majority comes from.

And Inuyama Castle has them on the keep initial construction start date (yes, you have to be that specific. The oldest castle that started construction on a Tuesday 😉 – I kid).

A general aside: I can’t imagine the amount of work it is to move so much material without the help of modern machines!

On the note of these castles being so old, this is definitely a situation you will need to take your shoes off in Japan for!

Where have all the castles gone?

There was a massive push to building Japanese castles in the late 1500s and early 1600s. I joke that they sent out carrier pigeons because the timing is creepily similar for the spread of land with no mass communication like today. You may have noticed while researching a trip in Japan that Japan is basically the size of the eastern seaboard of America.

There are estimated thousands of castles across Japan at that point. However, once the Tokugawa took over, there was a “一國一城令” or “one country, one castle order”. Lots of the 300 or so daimyo lords across Japan had to consolidate into one castle and the rest destroyed.

During the Meiji Period, there was a force in the works to get rid of all the castles as part of the Meiji restoration, otherwise, we’d have a lot more original Japanese Castles to visit. 

廢城令, or terminate the castle’s decree. Seen as symbols of the old regime, most were dismantled.  Some left just to degrade into disrepair.  Many other original Japanese castles then succumbed to earthquakes or fires or wars.  What we have left today is a testimony to those that stood up for keeping the heritage.  Mostly local movements.

12 Original Japanese Castles to visit and their keeps

Here are the 12 original Japanese castles in alphabetical order, as to not cause contention. If you’ve followed my travels for a while, you know which I think are the best original Japanese castles. Click through to their individual posts for more information on each!

Bitchu Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城）

Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城) to not confuse it with the other Matsuyama castle in the list of original Japanese castles, this one is in Okayama Prefecture.  It is the only one on top of a true mountain and the highest for that reason. Which makes the name even funnier as it’s a ***** to get to.

There’s no easy way to get to the top, even if you get dropped by a taxi you’ll still have a section of the mountain to hike up but it is beautiful when you do. If you are lucky you’ll be above the clouds!

Hikone Castle (彦根城)

One of the national treasures, Hikone Castle (彦根城) is on the smaller side with only a three-tier donjon, however, I’d put it as my second favorite. Located in Shiga Prefecture. It has this beautiful garden and some unique features – like the fact it was made completely out of another near by castle. Talk about recycling!

It was on the docket to have been dismantled as part of the Meiji Restoration but was saved.

Himeji Castle (姫路城)

Considered the largest of the originals, and really, there shouldn’t be contention.  Himeji Castle (姫路城) consists of some 83 buildings and the main keep is a giant 5 stories. Located in Himeji City in Hyogo Prefecture. She’s also one of the National Treasures.

You’ll need a fair amount of time to explore it all, while I’m probably the weirdo that doesn’t place this as number 1 it is still absolutely breathtaking and in my top 3. Luckily, getting to Himeji is super easy as it has its own shinkansen station

Hirosaki Castle (弘前城)

The farthest north of the original 12 Japanese castles to visit in Aomori Prefecture is Hirosaki Castle. It was originally called Takaoka Castle (there’s another one of those in the continuing list of 100 famous Japanese castles) with an original keep that was 5 stories tall that was burned in a fire.

Another of the Tokugawa’s rules was about the size of the keeps so when it was rebuilt, they were only allowed to rebuild a 3 story one.   Hirosaki Castle (弘前城) is currently relocated to reinforce the walls.  A feat in itself.

With Hirosaki Castle off by itself, you’ll definitely want to hit some of the local attractions as well. I love Aomori and Hirosaki is known for all things apples – fruit, pies, curry, random apple decorations, you name it!

Inuyama Castle (犬山城）

The aforementioned pretentious castle, Inuyama Castle (犬山城).  One of the national treasures and self–claimed oldest. Located in Aichi Prefecture.

Don’t miss the shopping street immediately in front of the castle entrance while you are here for some local food and omiyage (souvenir) shopping.

Kōchi Castle（高知城)

One of the newer of the 12 due to a fire that burnt her down.  Kochi Castle (高知城) was still rebuilt before the “cut off” though.  Kochi is the most southern prefecture in Shikoku. Unique to Kochi is that the palace is still remaining and one of the few instances where it was attached to the castle. In fact, ALL of the honmaru (1st bailey) is intact.

It’s honestly quite hard to rank the twelve against each other but this is one of my favorites. The town of Kochi has an interesting history of whale hunting so if that’s something you are against, be forewarned there is a display in a section of the castle for it.

Marugame Castle (丸亀城）

The smallest of the lot but Marugame Castle (丸亀城) still with character. Prepare for a steep hike up the hill to see the keep.  Many of the original walls are still there and famous for the fan shapes. Located on the island of Shikoku in Kagawa Prefecture.

The view out to the sea from the top is pretty amazing. Just are the stone walls, at 60 meters high they are the tallest in Japan.

Maruoka Castle (丸岡城)

Located in Fukui Prefecture, Maruoka Castle (丸岡城) probably has the stretchiest claim to the 12 as it was nearly flattened in an earthquake during last century.  However, they were able to jigsaw her back together with most of her same parts. She’s located in Fukui Prefecture.

Best part about that sketchy claim? She’s another one that claims to be the oldest Japanese castle. Don’t miss her neighboring Kasumigajo park garden, while new, they are still very nice and you can have a cup of green tea or some beer like I did while you enjoy the view.

Matsue Castle (松江城)

The 2nd largest (Matsumoto might fight her on that one), 3rd tallest, and 5th oldest, Matsue Castle (松江城) is also the farthest west on mainland Japan in Matsue, Shimane Prefecture.

Matsue and neighboring Tottori have so much to see (don’t miss the sand dunes, sand dune museum, and another of the 100 famous castles, Tottori Castle).

Matsumoto Castle (松本城)

One of the five National Treasures. Matsumoto Castle (松本城) is also one of the contenders for the oldest. Oh, you know how Inuyama only shows the 5 national treasures on display and ignore the other 7? Yeah, Matsumoto doesn’t give a !@#$ about the other 11. Winner of most pretentious! 🙂

Matsumoto Castle from the outside looks like 5 stories but on the inside it is actually 6. It also has the feature that it is multiple towers smushed next to each other. Nicknamed the “Crow castle” for its black exterior, its large moat makes for some spectacular photos.

Another town that you’ll want to spend some time walking around the city in. Lots of older buildings and some great beer to check out as well.

Matsuyama Castle (松山城）

I know I said I wouldn’t mention my favorite, but this is it! Matsuyama Castle (松山城) takes the cake of any of them. Even Himeji which is probably the most widely known. Located on Shikoku in Ehime prefecture.

Fun fact: Ehime is the only Prefecture with more than one of the 12 original Japanese castles to visit.

Uwajima Castle (宇和島城)

Uwajima Castle (宇和島城) is definitely a baby castle but worth the visit as it finishes out the 12! Located in Ehime Prefecture as well, but still, a bit of a ride from Matsuyama, especially if it is like when I went and hue amounts of rain had taken out part of the train tracks.

Stamp Rally

Don’t forget to get your guidebook to add these to your stamp rally for the 100 Finest Castles of Japan!  The designation set by the Japan Castle Foundation in 2006 and further in 2017.

12 Original Japanese Castles Map

As you can see by the below map, you aren’t going to be hitting these all in one day! Frankly, I love how much they are spread out because it gives you the opportunity to see so much more of this beautiful country.

Original Japanese Castles Hiking Courses

It is super easy to get exercise in Japan with all the walking around you can do. Having such a great public transportation system (between the buses, trains, and shinkansen) helps that. But also the general “culture” of Japan. Case in point – hiking courses (we’d call them trails but it’s courses in Japan). Most all Japanese castles to visit have courses mapped out for you already. Or you can make your own with your fitness device, I love my Garmin Fenix 6s.

Not that you necessarily need an extra route to hike when some of these castles are massive! But if you are staying in a particular city for a few days, I’d suggest giving it a go, there are always beautiful views and random artifacts hidden around.

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Matsuyama Castle (松山城, Matsuyamajyou) is officially my favorite Japanese Castle. One of the original twelve Edo period castles remaining, first constructed in the 1600s. It is located on Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four islands in Ehime prefecture.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in September of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

What does it mean to be an “original 12” Edo Period Castle?

There are 12 castles in Japan that are considered “original castles”. While there are bits and pieces of many of the estimated thousands of castles in Japan, and lots of reconstruction, the originals “made it out alive” so to speak. When the Meiji Restoration took hold in the 1860s, the castles were ordered to be dismantled. Want to unite a country under one central government? Take out all of the seats of power of the old system. Only the 12 were allowed to remain.

The castle keep while construction started early in the 1600s like most of the other castles, was completed in 1635 (my thoughts on why that was in a bit). It was struck by lightning in the late 1700s burning it to the ground, as wood structures are ought to do. The main keep was then rebuilt and finished in 1854. Just in the knick of time to have it all threatened to be torn down again!

Other Matsuyama Castles

When searching for details (though I hope I give you a good overview here!), make sure to look up the correct Matsuyama Castle. There are several others.

Next to the rather unique Yoshimi Hundred Caves in Saitama Prefecture s the castle remains of a different Matsuyama Castle. It holds the title of a historic site and is actually the location of several differently named castles over the years. What remains is just earthworks but it’s a fun little hike.

Another of the 12 original (現存12天守) is Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle in Okayama Prefecture has “Bitchu” on the front to distinguish it from Matsuyama Castle in Ehime. Bitchu is the city name, it also holds the title of highest of the 12 original castles.

Then two others I haven’t been to yet, Uda Matsuyama Castle in Nara Prefecture is only ruins remaining but part of the continuing 100 castle stamp quest. Another is in Gunma Prefecture.

Why so many castles with the same name? 松山 = Pine Mountain.

Matsuyama Castle: A castle on a hill

The honmaru (literally, “first circle” and corresponds to defense rings, normally translated as bailey) main keep of the castle sits on a 132-meter hill. With the maze of paths to get to the top, I’d have died 50 times over if I tried to get in. Multitudes of gates, giant reinforced walls, all sorts of ways to keep people out.

I wish I had gotten video of me “scaling” the castle as I’m sure it was a sight to see. You can truly feel like you are back in the 1600s with a samurai hiding around any corner while you are walking here. Matsuyama Castle matches Hikone Castle in that it has 登り石垣 or climbing stone walls, a style that is thought to have been learned from the Koreans (if you’ve been to Seoul, you’ve seen something similar).

Once you reach the top, there are amazing panoramas of the surrounding city and a great view of the Seto Inland Sea. But wait until you get to the main castle keep, it’s awe-inspiring. You really get a feel for what a castle is supposed to be in its full glory. Its style is unique to most other castles in which it has a sort of courtyard in the middle. Better to shoot the enemy at if they somehow managed to make it all the way here.

Speaking of, the castle keep was only really used in a siege scenario, the lord would have spent most of their time at the palace below.

Important Cultural Property

Matsuyama Castle obtained Important Cultural Property status in 1935. There are only five of the “original” castles that have “National Treasure” status but many with Important Cultural Property including some rebuilds, like Nagoya Castle and its palace (which unlike Kawagoe’s, has had extensive work done to it). Though honestly, it is interesting to me that Matsuyama is NOT a National Treasure, but I’m biased.

The main tower (tenshu) is what makes it “one of the 12” original castles. but it’s not the only important cultural property. There are 21 buildings in total that are important cultural properties at Matsuyama Castle.

1. 天守, tenshu, main tower
2. 三ノ門南櫓, Sannomon South Tower
3. 二ノ門南櫓, Ninomon South Tower
4. 一ノ門南櫓, Ichinomon South Tower
5. 乾櫓, Inui Tower
6. 野原櫓, Nohara Tower
7. 仕切門, Partition Gate
8. 三ノ門, Sannomon
9. 二ノ門, Ninomon
10. 一ノ門, Ichinomon
11. 紫竹門, Shichiku (Bamboo) mon
12. 隠門, Kakure (Hidden) Gate
13. 隠門続櫓, Kakure (Hidden) Gate Turret
14. 戸無門, Tonashi (Doorless) Gate
15. 仕切門内塀, Partition Gate Inner Wall
16. 三ノ門東塀, Sannomon East Wall
17. 筋鉄門東塀, Tetsumon East Wall
18. 二ノ門東塀, Ninomon East Wall
19. 一ノ門東塀, Ichinomon East Wall
20. 紫竹門東塀, Shichikumon East Wall
21. 紫竹門西塀, Shichikumon West Wall

Matsuyama Castle construction

You may have noticed in the pictures a rather flat area at the top of the hill (yes, it’s a “mountain” but not a very big one). Actually, that 132-meter hill used to be TWO hills at the top, but they filled in the gap between them, talk about a lot of work and why I think it took so long to make, though I haven’t seen anything that actually says that.

One question I had when I saw that little factoid, was where did all the stone come from? Can you imagine the amount of work that took? There was a note on the visitor brochure that women carried pebbles on baskets on their heads from Masaki to Matsuyama. That’s over SIX miles! Most of the larger stone came from an earlier castle’s foundation. Victors prize and a lot easier than moving large distances.

The inside of the castle has some museum aspects to it, like a neat display on the joiner work for all of the wood to make it stronger, but the main sight is to see this castle in its glory.

Ninomaru Historical Garden

Not to be missed is this Japanese Garden in the Ninomaru, or second circle/ bailey. Where once stood a giant palace, now the foundation outlines a garden. The flowers are changing throughout the year to give you another reason to keep coming back as if you will need one after seeing this place.

If you needed another thing to check off your list, there is a “Lover’s Sanctuary” spot here like the one in Ryusendo Caves. There are over 100 around the country to find!

Is there a moat at Matsuyama Castle?

The flat land park that you will pass on your way from the train station known as Horinouchi is surrounded by a moat to this day. It makes for some nice pictures looking at the mountain fortress.

Why is Matsuyama Castle my favorite Japanese castle?

Matsuyama Castles has a certain character to it that I haven’t seen anywhere else. Generally speaking, the keeps are all multi-floor structures (that don’t always match their exterior tiers), but Matsuyama has wings which are fairly uncommon in Japanese keeps. Next to Himeji Castle, it has the most complete representation of probably any in Japan which gives you a better feel for what it was actually like. And yes, Himeji is AMAZING, but Matsuyama just has a certain character about it.

It’s also one of the 100 finest castles of Japan so don’t forget your stamp!

Getting to Matsuyama Castle

If you aren’t keen on hiking the 132-meter hill (though if you are, there are several hiking courses to get your steps in, which I love tracking with my Garmin Fenix 6S), you can take a ropeway to the top. Similar to a ramen shop, you’ll get your tickets from a machine. If you have luggage with you, they have coin lockers for you to use.

Think of the ropeway as a gondola like you take getting to the black eggs at Owakudani in Hakone. Want something a little more “open-aired”? They also have a ski lift version that runs next to the ropeway with single seats.

In the station building, there is a display dedicated to the castle mascot. Japan loves their mascots and you could make a game of finding as many as you can. Matsuyama Castle’s is appropriately a samurai.

You’ll still have a bit of a walk to the castle keep from the ropeway landing. If you take the ropeway up, I suggest you take the hike back down the mountain. It’s worth it to see all the back and forth of the many defenses at this castle’s disposal. It’s also how you can get to Ninomaru Historical Gardens.

It’s about a mile from the main train station in Matsuyama to get to the castle or you can take a trolley. My suggestion would be to either go trolley (unless you need some more steps!) – ropeway – main keep – ninomaru gardens and walk back or that in reverse.

Ah, the monthly utility bills, time to send in a check or sign in to an online payment…. not necessarily in Japan! How you pay bills in Japan is a little different.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in June of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

How you will receive utility bills in Japan

One thing you will want to check your mail for besides Domino’s coupons and other random fliers about take away sushi and the like is your utility bills, how else will you pay bills in Japan? When determining the amount due, it is normally listed in multiple spots on the paper. Look for the symbol for yen, 円.

Why is it in multiple spots? When you pay bills in Japan, the receipts go to multiple different people. Do you see the perforation on the paper? Don’t take those apart yourself!! One will go to you, and the others go to the company and as record for who ever took your payment (more on that in a second).

How to easily pay bills in Japan: Gas, Electric, Water Utility bills in Japan

Need an excuse to get outside for some extra steps (I love my Garmin Fenix 6S for fitness tracking!), take your bill down to your local convenience store or the Japanese Post Office and hand them over to the clerk to pay utility bills in Japan. 

They’ll scan them in and after you pay — in CASH — will stamp them paid, remove the sections of the bill they need for the receipt, give you your half and send you on your merry way.  Remember when I mentioned JP ATMs? Yeah, this is why.  Saves on the postage fees but something to adjust to when your use to in America paying utility bills online.  

It however also adds to the fact that convenience stores really are, convenient.

Personally, I kind of like going to the konbini once a month to pay my bills, pick up a few things, see what new instant ramen or onigiri options there are.  You can’t throw a rock in town (especially if you live near the train stations) without hitting a コンビニ (konbini, convenience store) so this never caused an issue. 

Can I use bank withdrawals or automatic payments for my utility bills in Japan?

While this article is written from the perspective of someone living in Japan under a status of forces agreement (SOFA), the key basics are the same – except this! Unless I had a spouse that was working for a Japanese company, it’s pretty hard for me to get a Japanese bank account. Nigh impossible, but also not a huge concern as 7-11 ATMs take foreign bank cards (as does the Japanese Post Office). My bank is also available on base.

However, for bill paying in Japan to be automated to a bank account, you’ll need a Japanese bank. (If I’m wrong and someone has figured out how to do it, please share! But I tried and got harsh glares when I asked!). For automatic payments, you’ll have to submit an application to the utility company. This can take some time to process, so make sure not to miss a month!

Cell Phone Bill Paying in Japan

My cell phone bill in Japan I do actually have the option to have automatic payments set up on my credit card or receive a bill in the mail.  With the bill being received in the mail, you at least have a reminder to make sure you don’t have any erroneous charges (though they ARE in Japanese so Google Translate, find a friend, or learn Japanese) and you can take your bill either to your cell phone provider in that case or you can take them to the コンビニ (konbini, convenience store) as well. 

Bill Paying Services: GI Bill Pay

An option for the 20,000+ Americans working in Yokosuka Japan (and other bases around the country) is to use a bill-paying service to pay bills in Japan. Gas, Electric, and Water and your rent can all be taken care of. For military personnel that may be gone for months at a time, this is a great time saver and stress reliever. They charge a small fee every month but you don’t have to ever worry about being late on a bill payment. 

With my first rental in Japan, I had the option to use a bill-paying service but it was not required.  I chose not to use it because I thought it was super fun to pay bills in Japan at the convenience store or コンビニ (konbini). My second landlord required it, something that will be confirmed during your lease signing.  It definitely took some of the “hassle” away, if you can even call it that. There are convenience stores all over Japan, I pass multiple each day. The only thing would be remembering to bring the bill!

What do you think of the Japanese bill paying system?

For a long time, I avoided going to Denny’s Japan.  I make it a rule when I’m on travel for work to never go to chain restaurants.  The only time I’ll falter is when that particular restaurant isn’t available to me (hello, Mellow Mushroom).  The more and more I saw “limited time” crazy offers at McDonald’s and Burger King (I really should have a whole series on just the limited time offers), the more I considered trying Denny’s out.

I remember fondly (ha!) growing up and walking out of Denny’s while on vacation. Late–night trips with friends for pancakes and coffee as well.  The service was always horrible. So it was with glee that I forced my family to go with me for breakfast while they were visiting.  They didn’t believe me.  Perfect opportunity for early in their trip that, no really, Japan’s customer service is impeccable.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in November of 2016 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

What are the differences and similarities of Denny’s in Japan?

Denny’s Japan are what you would consider “family restaurants”. There are many different chains that fall under this category that I will delve into in a future article. They are obviously a different atmosphere than an izakaya (Japanese bar) but most still have happy hour deals which are very reasonable!

One of the differences about Denny’s Japan versus the original in America, is that they have … Japanese food (和食, washoku)! But they also have a bunch of western style dishes (洋食, Youshoku).

The dessert menu is similar but different. Parfait is my favorite at family restaurants, but this is much different than sundaes in America. Lots of them have corn flakes in them – do not knock it till you try it! I have friends that won’t even give it a chance but the crunchy and creamy at the same time is amazing!

The prices are all quite reasonable and you can go in just for a coffee – one of the few places you’ll see refills in Japan – and relax. Some locations have “drink bars” where you can choose all different types of drinks. There is free Wi-Fi as well if you are looking for a Wi-Fi connection.

While many restaurants and stores in Japan don’t take credit cards, Denny’s is one place that does take credit cards.

Fun fact: Denny’s Japan (デニーズ レストラン) is actually owned by Seven and I holdings, yes, the same that own the convenience stores.

Many of the 500+ Denny’s Japan locations are open 24 hours a day, I may or may not have seen people passed out in their booths waiting for the first train…

Like most places in Japan, the employees wear matching uniforms, and because it’s Japan, you can buy cosplay versions of them! Not the same as I’ve seen them wearing, but I thought it was funny.

Denny’s Japan: The Service

First, service in Japan is wonderful.  A twist to American service in many family restaurants (like Denny’s Japan) and izakaya (Japanese bar) is that they have a doorbell (there’s no other way to describe it) at every table that lights up your table number for the staff to see and they come running right away.  If for whatever reason that doesn’t work, there’s always the “sumimasen!” option.

There you go, Dad, service in Denny’s! There is always someone from the wait staff wandering the floor with a carafe of coffee.  You never have to ask for the check because as soon as they bring your food, they put your bill in a small plastic container at the end of your table.  

Want to order more? No problem! They’ll just bring you another receipt.

What’s that next to the creamer and sugar?  Door Bell!! Or as we call it in Japan, “the ping pong button” based on the noise it makes. Instant service.

Dennys Japan Menu

Fear not, Traveller! Dennys Japan has translated menu’s into English but they are full of pictures if they don’t bring you one.  Since much of the food is American inspired, if you know some basic katakana (one of Japan’s syllabaries for foreign words), you’ll do just fine!

While the portion size is smaller in Japan, there is also calorie information if you are concerned about that. Have allergies? Denny’s Japan also has this information available to you.

The breakfast menu at Denny’s Japan is used from 6 am until 11 am, the lunch menu is from 11 am to 3 pm, and the dessert menu and “Grand Menu” are always available. Watch out for special seasonal menus as well.

There are always special menus for either seasonal items (yup, there are “limited items” everywhere) as well as yummy dessert parfait menus.

The menu is giant so you will have no shortage of different foods to try.

Denny’s Japan Food

OK, I’ll be honest, I’ve only gone for breakfast – though I’ve been to many of the other family restaurants for dinners and happy hours.  Japan’s breakfasts are very different from America’s and sometimes you just really want some eggs and bacon.  Much harder to find in your local cafes (though visiting a 喫茶店 Kissaten is a MUST for your experience in Japan).  While there are no “grand slams” available, there are still “American Breakfasts” with just a few changes.  

They just about always come with salad for one. The pancakes tend to be a lot sweeter than American style (which cracks me up because most Japanese sweets aren’t nearly as sweet).  The meals are customization options: pancakes/toast, coffee or lattes.  

Coffee is actually refillable (unless there is a “drink bar”, usually you don’t get free refills in Japan).  

Bacon here is more like Canadian Bacon then the crispy bacon you can get in America but you get used to it.  

They also have a typical Japanese breakfast as an option (fish, miso soup, pickles, and rice normally) if you want to check out the local fair which is also very tasty.

How about you? Would you try Denny’s Japan?