New Years Eve in Japan is a bit different than what you may be used to elsewhere in the world. A more subdued holiday, most people head to their family homes, much more similar to Christmas in the West.  You can still find count downs similar to western-style celebrations, but my friends and I like to go the more traditional route.

This year of COVID isolation has made everything a little wonky, and yes, I’m updating this post in the new year! Better late than never but one good thing that came of 2020 is that I’ve been able to update a lot of older blog posts. This year for New years eve in Japan there was much more watching of Kohaku then heading out but here’s to dreaming of the years to come.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in December of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

What is New Years eve in Japan called?

In Japanese, New Years eve is called “大晦日” (Ōmisoka). “晦日” (Misoka) refers to the last day of the month and since it’s a big deal swapping years it gets a “大” (long o sound, “big”) on the front. You will also see events for New years eve in Japan simply referred to as “New Year’s Eve” though. Another word for it is “年越し” or “toshikoshi”, which leads to our next point.

New Years day in Japanese, in case you are curious, is called “元日” or ganjitsu. The “New Year” is called お正月 (o-shougatsu, the “o” is an honorific), especially referring to the first three days. While some of this post bleeds over into the first day (as New Years eve is ought to do), I’ll concentrate on the particulars of お正月 some other time.

Eat Toshikoshi Soba (年越し蕎麦)

You start the evening with dinner or a snack of Toshikoshi soba which brings good luck for the following year.  Toshikoshi soba (年越し蕎麦） translates as “year-crossing soba”. Soba noodles are supposed to signify a long life because they are long and thin. The tradition is thought to have started several hundred years ago. There is lots of superstition surrounding this meal though.

• Don’t bite them or you’ll cut life short!  Though NOT chewing them I think would also lead to a short life as I don’t know how not to choke on them otherwise. I’ve also seen where because they are so easy to break (soba especially made traditionally with only buckwheat is very fragile), you are “breaking free” of the past.
• It is also said to bring stamina due to the fact that buckwheat is a very hearty plant.
• You are supposed to have it early in the evening as after midnight signifies bad luck, since you were supposed to “cut off” the evils of the prior year before then. 

Whatever you decide to believe, adding toshikoshi soba to your New Years eve in Japan celebration is a delicious meal and you’ll find soba restaurants all over. But why just Japan? It’s truly a simple meal to make.

Prepare a quick dashi broth from kombu seaweed and dried shitake mushrooms or bonito flakes (katsuobushi), add some mirin and soy sauce and you have the base. Soba noodles can be found in Asian or specialty food stores and take the same amount of time as most long noodles (and no need to do anything special like with ramen noodles). Top with some scallions and maybe a little American wasabi (horseradish – only partially joking as that’s normally what the “wasabi” is in America), and voila!

Oh, and a little bit of shichimi togarashi seasoning (more on that another time) is a tasty accompaniment.

Watch Kouhaku Uta Gassen (紅白歌合戦)

Feel like staying in? What’s New Year’s Eve without a ridiculous television show? Similar to Western count down shows, except heavy on the singing aspect is 紅白歌合戦 (Kouhaku Uta Gassen) or “Red and White Singing Contest”. The Japan Broadcasting Network (otherwise known as NHK) has been running the program since 1951 originally as a radio show and then was moved to TV.

There is a red and white team that compete throughout the evening. Starting around 7 or 8, it runs to exactly 11:45 – room to get to hurry to your next event, Hatsumode.

Head to the Shrine for Hatsumode (初詣)

Next, just before midnight, head to a shrine for Hatsumode (初詣) or the first shrine visit of the year. (Some will go to a Temple instead, see the next topic!) Probably the most popular shrine in Tokyo for Hatsumode is the Meiji shrine (明治神宮). Dedicated to Emporer Meiji (the 15-year old that ruled after the fall of the shogunate) and his wife, it should be on your list of shrines to see anyway. Located next to Harajuku Station, it’s easy to get to but normally (see aforementioned COVID comment) super crowded and you could be waiting for hours with thousands of your new close friends. 

My friends and I like a smaller shrine on the other side of Cat Street called 穏田神社 (Onden Shrine). While the exact date of their existence is unknown, there is reference to the local god of Onden from the Edo period making them around 400 years old. Most of the buildings were lost in the war so they have been rebuilt since but it is a nice little shrine. Why this one though? My friend works practically next door and visits it often!

If you arrive before midnight, there will be a line to wait to pray as the goal is to pray for a good year as soon as possible but not too early!

What is the large hoop of grass at Shinto Shines?

You may have noticed in those pictures what appears like a circle made of straw. This is called a 茅の輪 (chinowa) and you will see them around New Years’ and in the month of June at Shinto shrines. If you do you can take place in the purification ritual called 茅の輪くぐり (chinowa kuguri). You will walk around it in a figure-eight pattern.

1. Bow in front, step with your left foot over the ring and head to the left.
2. Once around to the front again, bow again and step with your right foot over and head to the right.
3. One more time! Bow at the front, step with your left foot and head to the left.
4. Back at the front, bow, step with your left and head forward to the shrine to pray.

After praying at Onden Shrine, you are offered a taste of sake in a small plate looking vessel called sakazuki. Sakazuki is a wide-mouthed, flat sake cup. Different from how you will normally see sake served, this style is used in Shinto rituals and ceremonies. Lift the cup with both hands, one on the bottom and one on the side. For a small offering, you can keep the sakazuki as a souvenir. Each year they have the new zodiac animal.

The next thing you will see is the お守り (omamori) for sale. These are amulets or charms for various things and it is common to start the new year off with one. Another reason I love this small shrine is that they make a huge batch of amazaki (甘酒, sweet sake) for all patrons, not to be missed. It’s delicious and served warm it is perfect on cold nights.

Hear the bells of Joya no kane (除夜の鐘)

If you are instead at a Buddhist temple at midnight (Hatsumode can take place at either a shrine or a temple), you can hear them toll the new year in. Get ready to count because the bell will ring 108 times.  108 is ominous in Buddhist and is supposed to signify the 108 human desires. 

Luckily, many shrines and temples are near each other so even if you are at a shrine, you can hear the bells. And just to make it more confusing, I’ve seen some shrines with bells as well. 

See the first sunrise or Hatsuhinode (初日の出)

It’s a big thing to see the sunrise and again, wish for good luck in the coming year. This is called Hatsuhinode which can be quite literally translated the “the beginning day rising”.  Many people will gather on the beaches or tops of the mountains to start their new year off. There are recommended spots put out every year along with forecasts for the morning so you can ensure to actually see the sun.

In the capital, Mount Takao is a favorite as well as Tokyo Tower, which opens the observation deck at 6 am for New Years Day. Tokyo Sky Tree (which honestly I like better than Tokyo Tower as far as observation decks go) holds a lottery (again, normally. This year hasn’t been normal) every year to get a spot to see from there. Another good spot is the observation deck at Haneda Airport with its unobstructed view across Tokyo Bay to Chiba prefecture. They also (normally) open earlier than usual for the event.

Yes, there are still some western-style Celebrations

If you want a good old fashioned ball drop, there are plenty of pubs that will have a more “western” celebration with paper fireworks and silly “happy new years!” hats. If clubs are more your scene, head over to Shibuya or Roppongi, the latter being much more international. Another pick and one of the largest clubs I’ve ever seen (though I’m more of a pub girl than a club girl) is on the eastern side of the city at ageHa.

Even though Japan loves their fireworks, it’s not really a thing for new years eve in Japan. However, if you are in Tokyo and are just dying to see some, head over to Tokyo Disney (the Miracosta is fantastic by the way) or Sea Paradise in Yokohama. The Minato Mirai area (same as where you can check out the CupNoodle museum and tons of Pikachus in the summer) also puts on a display.

Transportation the Night of New Years eve in Japan

New Years Eve in Japan is the one night a year that trains tend to run a bit longer. If you are in a bigger city like Tokyo, they can go all night – a huge novelty when you are constantly worrying about last-train at nomikais (Japanese drinking parties)! If you are a bit farther out of the city, you still need to be mindful of the time. Check out the train line’s website for their New Years eve in Japan hours. 

What are your New Years’ Eve traditions?

Let me know in the comments. Like this post? Share it on social.

If you recall my article on Valentine’s Day in Japan, then you’ll remember that it was purely girls giving chocolate. How’s that fair?! You may ask.  May I present to you, White Day, Japan’s reverse Valentine’s Day.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in February of 2019 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

History of White Day

Much like Valentine’s Day, the history of White Day is a tad convoluted. If you think of Valentine’s Day as a giant marketing scheme in the US: Japan’s one-upped us with this one.  Why have only one massive day for sweet buying, when you could have two?

Okashi (お返し) and Marshmallow Day

There is a huge gift-giving culture in Japan that helps contribute to the concept called “お返し” or “return gift”. In 1977, an executive of the 石村萬盛堂 (Ishimura Manseido) confectionary store in Fukuoka was looking for inspiration. As the story goes, he came across a letter to a women’s magazine where there was a complaint about why don’t men return the favor (okashi) of Valentine’s Day gifts? Why not something “like a handkerchief, candy, even marshmallows…”

Tada! “Marshmallow Day” (マシュマロデー) was born.

What day is White Day?

Ah, but what day should this be? The debate was made between three days according to Ishimura Manseido’s website.

1. The inverted day, April 12th? (2/14 = 4/12)
2. One week later on the 21st of February
3. One month later on March 14th.

The decision was made in a very Goldilocks fashion of “not too close but not too far” and henceforth, White Day occurs exactly a month after Valentine’s Day, on March 14th.

Not so says National Candy Association

全国飴菓子工業協同組合 is a very long set of kanji that usually translates to something like “Nationwide Confectionery Industry Cooperative Association” tells a slightly different story. They state that in 1978 and 1979, the 13 companies to make up the co-op came together twice in Tokyo to have discussions about how to sell more candy. That eventually morphs into “White Day Committee Planning meeting”.

You guessed it, as a way to sell more products under the guise as a “payback” day for the ladies that were so nice to hand you chocolate on Valentine’s day.

Why white?

Originally a bunch of names were thrown around but they decided on ホワイトデー (White Day, again fully katakana that is the Japanese pronunciation of the English words). Why? Because white is the symbol of purity and it could “renew teens love” (yes, they actually say that).

They also magically came to the date of March 14th. For the next ten years, there were elaborately themed campaigns. No mention of the marshmallow day or Ishiwata on the National Candy Association history that I can find.

Third Theory

There’s a third theory of how it began that is circulating around as well though the least likely (and let’s face it, the other two theories at least the companies/associations in question are laying claim to it!). The third theory is that Fujiya created it with a “Mercy Valentine” campaign in 1973. However, there is nothing about that on their company timeline which you would think there would be if it were true after such a lasting impact.

Regardless, it has stuck!

三倍返し (triple the return) and White Day

So somehow over the years, there’s been this perpetuating thought that the amount of money a man must spend on his return gift is 3 times the return or sanbai gaeshi (三倍返し). That kanji makes my head hurt because it’s technically “three – double the returns” so is that six times? But I digress.

Let’s do some quick math. Let’s say, you work in an office with lots of women. So you got 10 obligation chocolates (see my post on Valentine’s Day for more on the different types of chocolate). Even if it’s 100 yen apiece, that’s $30 USD. Get more like 300 yen and you’re pushing $100 USD!

Don’t worry, Yahoo did surveys and most spend much more like 1.2 times the amount. That still adds up but the point is, don’t feel obligated to go crazy. At least from the stand point of this one American female that has been getting White Day gifts from my male Japanese coworkers for 6 years. They usually all chip in and get me a box of cookies!

White Day around the world

In recent years, the custom has started to move to other Asian cultures.  As in America, Valentine’s day is more of a man giving gift days, do you think that one day we may end up with a reverse white day? Where girls give the return gifts? Let me know in the comments!

Valentine’s Day in Japan is celebrated on February 14th just like the rest of the world. However, the similarities may stop there. Of all the twists on Western culture, I think this one is my favorite.

Valentine’s Day in Japan is for the ladies to give chocolates to the gentlemen.  And there are varying degrees of what that means.  Frankly, it can get a bit expensive (especially for someone that works with mostly men), but it’s so much fun!

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in January of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

How do you say Valentine’s Day in Japanese?

It is known as “バレンタインデー” which is fully in katakana, Japan’s syllabary for foreign words. This means it is merely the Japanese pronunciation of the English words (in this case, katakana can be used for any foreign words). You can also see it sometimes as “ヴァレンタインデー” which is slightly closer in pronunciation. There isn’t a kanji equivalent.

History of Valentine’s Day in Japan: When did it start?

In 1931, a chocolate store named Morozov opened on トアロード (toa road) in Kobe. Something nearly unheard of at the time. Chocolate was very rare. After Kobe Port opened to the outside world in 1868, Toa Road (which actually can be seen written several different ways with various theories behind them) became a popular location for foreigners to live.

The founder learned about the tradition of Valentine’s Day from an American friend and wanted to start the practice in Japan. In 1935, their first advertisement about Valentine’s Day ran in the local English newspaper. (I’ve seen it was 1936 but I’m going to go with the own companies histories and the confusion is probably because Showa years start on April 29th.)

However, you can thank another company for ingraining the tradition of women being the ones to give chocolate on Valentine’s Day. In 1958, a similar story played out for the chocolate company Mary’s in which an employee learned of Valentine’s Day from a foreign friend and thought the idea was brilliant.

It was an unknown concept in the Kanto plain so in 1959 Mary’s ran a slogan of “女性が男性に1年に1度愛の告白ができる日” or basically “the one day of the year that women can confess their love”.

From there, Mary’s Chocolate has been instrumental in the evolution of Valentine’s Day in Japan and has even been awarded a “Cultural Achievement Award” for it.

The different type of chocolate giving on Valentine’s Day in Japan

Whereas in the US, the pressure is on the men to gift their significant others, Japan is the opposite.  However, for the females in Japan. it’s a weird combination of obligatory grade school-Esque “everyone gets something” and submission of love to either a known significant other or an opportunity to confess their love to a secret crush or crushes!

The emphasis is on the chocolate giving, not on a date.  Christmas eve actually holds the title for the most romantic day in Japan.

本命チョコ, honmei choco

“Choco” if it wasn’t obvious, is a shortening of the word “chocolate”. “Honmei” means “favorite” or “heart’s desire” even though the kanji that make it up can be “origin” and “fate”. But nonetheless, Honmei Choco is your high tier of chocolate-giving. This one is for your boyfriends, husbands, and secret crushes.  Often times these are homemade and very preciously concocted.

義理チョコ, giri choco

While “義理” (giri) is normally translated as “obligation”, I always like to think of it as more like a “sense of duty” (I can probably thank WaniKani for that). Makes it sound a little better than “obligation chocolate”.

This, gentleman, is what you receive from your female coworkers (unless of course, they have a secret crush on you!).

友チョコ, tomo choco

Recently, as if this holiday wasn’t expensive enough, it’s become popular to give chocolate to your female friends as well. Hence, tomo choco. Tomo coming from a shortening of the word “友達” or “tomodachi” for “friend” and “choco” the same cute abbreviation for chocolate.

自分チョコ, jibun-choco

Finally, it’s, of course, most important to love yourself and there we have “jibun choco”. “自分” is basically a pronoun to mean “self”. So in other words, “self chocolate”.

Where to buy Valentine’s Day Chocolate in Japan?

If you want to go full out, the department stores are where you want to head. There will be plenty of advertising to point you in the correct direction for Valentine’s day chocolate. To top it off, Japan loves gift wrapping so there are small boxes of chocolates that can run about 300 yen all the way to larger boxes in the 6000 yen range already wrapped for you!

While its “traditional” to give chocolates, another option is to go to a sweets store or お菓子屋 (okashiya). If you are near Kawagoe, they have a whole street full of sweet shops to keep you occupied called お菓子屋横丁 (Okashiyayokocho).

For a less expensive option, you can try for some 100 円均一 (ひゃくえんきんいち, 100 yen shop) options! (They are also known as 百均, ひゃっきん, hyakkin for short).

One thing to note, watch out for the amount you spend on obligation chocolates because when White Day rolls around the following month, there are some unspoken “rules” that can leave you swimming in chocolates!

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Halloween in Japan, like most “western” holidays celebrated, has taken on its own form.  It wasn’t until Tokyo Disneyland and Universal Studios in Osaka started their themed events (similar to the states), that it became big.  Being as I live near Tokyo, I’m not sure what it is like in the country.  Halloween has definitely captured the interest of the capital city.

How is Halloween in Japan celebrated?

1) Trick or Treat isn’t a thing

If you are looking for Trick or Treating for the kids, unless you live near an American base (and know someone that can get you in), you won’t find that here.

2) Embrace the Costume!

As cos-playing (コスプレ, kosopure, “costume play”), is very popular in Japan, it was easy to embrace the dress up aspect and it more of an adult event.

3) Halloween Parades

This would count as a very Japanese custom.  The biggest I know of are in Kanagawa, just south of Tokyo, and in Tokyo there are several.  I actually haven’t been to one yet (I generally am at work when they are happening) but its more of an excuse for everyone to parade THEMSELVES through town and show off their costumes.

However, if you want a fancier affair, you can always head over to Tokyo Disney and see their parades!  Both Tokyo Disney Land and Disney Sea have them, Sea being more “intense” than Land.

Universal Studios Osaka also has various events.  They also have permanent attractions that are more on the scary side of things.

4) It’s a big party

The craziest of all Halloween is probably is what goes down at Shibuya Crossing.  You may know it as the worlds “busiest pedestrian scramble”. A few years ago, they started shutting down the street during Halloween due to the amount of people showing up in costume to show off.  In fact, it’s been a bit of a nuisance in recent news.

How’s the rest of the world?

For Japan’s only “Holiday” between Obon and Christmas (not including other various fall festivals), it will be interesting to see if and how it changes in the future years. How is Halloween celebrated in your neck of the world? Or is it even? Let me know in the comments!

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