It’s a sad day, one of the best Yokahama Style Ramen shops in downtown Yokosuka has closed. But like I gave away a secret announcing its existence when this post was originally published a year ago, I’m giving away another secret.  Zushiya has not one but two other location!

While there’s this general idea that most restaurants don’t make it past the first year (not true), in this case though, as best I can tell, the main building is being ripped down. There is always massive turnover on buildings in Japan, and whereas this article is specifically about housing, it applies to commercial properties that I’ve witnessed for my six–plus years living in Japan as well.

They are constantly getting rid of the older buildings. In which, Zushiya was residing in. So that begs the question? What happens when you lose your favorite place?

This post has been update as of August 2019.

Always look for a new location

One thing for certain, there are a lot of franchises or at least multi-location entities in Japan that as a foreigner, you might not be aware that is the case. People I know rave about a certain izakaya and I have to remind the masses, “guys, it’s a chain, you can find them elsewhere too!”.

And sometimes? They just move! Like what happened with one of my favorites just recently. I hadn’t gotten the memo that Pink Pony Café had moved on to bigger and brighter things. And I couldn’t be happier for them! But I digress.

In this case, Zushiya has always had a second location (at least since my arrival) in Kitakurihama, a quick 10 minute train ride away.

Have more than one favorite!

As I mention in my Ultimate Ramen Guide and Spicy Ramen in Tokyo posts, it is always acceptable to have more than one favorite. As such, here are some others I truly enjoy in Yokosuka that one day will get written up as well!

• 本牧家 横須賀店 Honmokuya Yokosuka Store
• ラーメン神豚 横須賀中央店 Ramen Kamibuta Yokosuka-chuo Store
• きたくり家 横須賀中央店 Kitakuriya Yokosuka-chuo Store

Notice those all say “Yokosuka Store”? Because there is more than one of them!

What is Yokohama Style Ramen?

When you see 横浜家系 (Yokohama ie-kei), you know it’s Yokohama Style. The 家系 actually means family line. The soup is thick, soy flavored pork broth. Similar to tonkotsu (pork bone broth) but NOT the same thing. (Need a guide to all things Ramen? Head over to my Ramen guide here).

Noodles are thick and straight and there are standard toppings:

• チャーシュー (cha-shu-, roasted pork)
• sheets of nori (and stores are very specific on the number of sheets I’ve noticed)
• boiled spinach
• some welsh onion

Some stores will come automatically with a soft boiled or “onsen” egg. Or if you are Zushiya, QUAIL eggs.

Ordering at a Ramen Shop

Two things with ordering ramen, first, you order at a vending machine and then hand the ticket to the employee.

Shops are slowly getting more and more English menus but as a general rule, go with the most expensive option and you can’t go wrong. The ramen will be at the top of the machine with add-on options and side menu items further down. I suggest もやし (moyashi, bean sprouts).  They are delicious.

Second thing, how it’s made. This 100% is a Yokohama style ramen thing but you can also use these terms for any ramen. When in doubt, say “普通” (fu-tsu, normal).

Japanese Lesson Time

There are three things you are worried about with ramen.  How your noodles are cooked, how thick the broth is, and how much oil you want (more fat = more umami of the dish). 

In the case of Zushiya, you have to know that instinctively as it’s the ranges, nothing about the topic (pretty typical in Japanese, context is everything). I’ve seen other places where it spells it out (albeit in Japanese) “Noodle, Soup, Oil”.  If you just say “普通” (fu-tsu, normal), you’ll get by just fine.

硬め – katame, aldente (just to throw another language in there)

柔らかめ – Yawarakame, soft

濃 い – koi, heavy

薄い – usui, light

多め  – o-me, more (this is talking to the oil/clarified fat they add)

少め – shoume, a little

When asked how you would like your ramen, you just rattle off in order. “硬め , 薄い, 少め” is my go-to.

How do I find Zushiya?

Now that you have to go to the original, it’s a train ride but it is still just a quick walk from the train station.  It’s like everywhere in Japan.  “Hang a left at the pachinko parlor and it’s around the corner from the convenience store”.  I kid, I kid.  Straight shot out, here’s a map to the two locations. Kitakurihama is obviously slightly closer than Kurihama.

I challenge you to find somewhere better

Tenfu (天府) is actually a full-on Szechuan-style, Chinese restaurant complete with hot pots or nabe (definitely a Japanese food to try) but I was introduced to it as “the color ramen place” and it stuck. It is a delicious option for tantanmen in Yokohama. However, it is actually dandanmen and not the Japanese pronunciation!

If your feeling noodles in the Noge area of Yokohama, I highly recommend you head over to Tenfu for a bite.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in July of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

Why’s it called Color Ramen?

Nicknaming places is a lazy habit when you don’t read kanji, to be honest. However, while I get mad at my fellow American’s for not learning Japanese, in this case, I can see it. It’s not very ingenious but there is massive signage both indoors and out for their special 5 color tantanmen (五色の担々麵). Don’t think this is like “normal” ramen you’ll find in every corner of Japan.  The flavors are very unique and why I love it and hope you will too. 

Colors of the Rainbow

It’s like anything else in Japan, you have to try them all.  Ordering is easy.  You just say which color you want.  There are 5 to choose from.  This is a Szechuan place though, so you also get to tell your spice level similar to spicy ramen restaurants in Tokyo.

• Green (緑, みどり, midori) the sesame base is combined with spinach soup and four other herbs.
• Yellow (黄色, きいろ, ki-iro) the sesame base is combined with カレー (curry) spices and it’s the shops original (i.e. I’d start here!)
• 赤 (あか, aka, red) is one of the hottest. The sesame base is combined directly with 花椒 (kasho, Szechuan peppercorn). It also has 12 additional spices including garlic and peppermint.
• 白 (しろ, shiro, white) the sesame base is combined with soy milk and is the delicatest of them all with some fresh vegetables to go with it
• 黒 (くろ, kuro, black) is surprisingly not as spicy as the red (at least to me!)

How much does color ramen cost?

A very reasonable 780円.  The bowls are huge.  I suggest throwing in some of the stir-fried veggies as a side or some gyoza if you are particularly hungry. There is also the option to order 麺大盛り (men omori, large noodles) for an extra 100 yen.

Oh, and if you are thirsty, they have a 飲み放題 (nomihoudai, all-you-can-drink) option. The rest of the food is also pretty spectacular and as is common in this type of restaurant, ordering more as you go is a common option.

Watch the afternoon hours

Like many spicy ramen shops, there is a break in the afternoon where alas, you can’t have color ramen. Apparently, we are taking a note from the Spanish siestas! And if you’ve had a big bowl of spicy anything, you know you wouldn’t mind a nap afterward either!

They are open weekdays for lunch between 11:30 am and 3 pm and dinner from 5 pm and midnight. Weekends there isn’t a break and you can go at any time.

Getting Here

The area of Noge is packed full of delicious bars and restaurants. If you are in Yokohama, you definitely want to give it a try. You’re best option is taking the train. There are three stations close by.

• Hinodecho (日ノ出町駅) on the Keikyu Line
• Sakuragicho (桜木町駅) on the JR and Blue Lines (the Blue Line is Yokohama’s subway system)
• Kannai (関内駅) on the JR and Blue Lines

Other things to do in the area

Noge isn’t just a good place for tantanmen in Yokohama, it’s an area for nightlife. You can eat and drink to your heart’s content at the izakaya and “snacks” that line the area. Basically, come hungry and maybe stay a few days. It’s also close to another of my favorite restaurants, Hanasaki Butcher’s Store.

Noge is also relatively close to the Minato Mirai region of Yokohama. There is shopping and museums check out. On weekends, there’s a good chance you’ll be able to find a festival at Akarenga or the “Red Brick Warehouse”. There in August? Don’t miss out on the Pikachu Outbreak!

There is a small area of amusement park that you can check out the Cosmos Clock 21 which was the largest ferris wheel in the world in the 1990s.

Don’t forget Yokohama has the largest Chinatown in the world if you want more Chinese food and if you didn’t get your ramen fill with color ramen, head over to the CupNoodle Museum or on the train over to the Ramen Museum.

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