Sapporo Snow Festival is the largest winter festival in Hokkaido but don’t waste a trip to Japan’s largest without seeing some of the others as well! Conveniently, there are FOUR winter festivals that all occur around the same time. Explore more of northern island’s winter wonderlands.

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How to best enjoy Sapporo’s Snow Festival

At 71 years strong as of 2020, as well as the largest, Sapporo Snow Festival (さっぽろ雪まつり, Sapporo Yuki Matsuri) is a must, and if you only have time for one, definitely make Sapporo your priority. In 2020, it is running from February 4th to 11th for the main events. There are three main sites for the festival: Odori Park, Susukino, and Tsudome.

The event site is always open and there is plenty to see. The most magical views are after sunset. Don’t miss the projection mapping on some of the sculptures! But don’t let that deter you from the day time, there are plenty of events to keep you occupied. How about a spin on the ice rink? Or one of my favorites, the ski and snowboard jump competition. Yup, in a completely flat park they erect a make shift hill for this competition!

International Snow Sculpture Contest

At what I call the far end of Odori Park is where the International Snow Sculpture Contest takes place. Why is it the far end? It’s the end opposite the Sapporo TV Tower. Sapporo’s own baby “Eiffel tower”, built in 1957 and 147.2 m high. For reference, the real deal is just over twice that! Don’t worry, there’s an observation deck.

When they say international, they mean it. I’m particularly impressed by the countries that don’t have snow but I suppose most definitely have beaches! It’s very cool to see all the different countries work. Many culturally inspired pieces to enjoy!

Susukino Area

Where as Odori Park is meant for snow, the Susukino area is all about ice and you can see some great works of art carved. Oh, there’s usually an ice bar so watch for that!

All the food

While you are walking around in the cold, you’re definitely going to work up an appetite. Never fear, there are plenty of food stands to go around! It’s also a favorite of mine to have amezake, a warm drink made from sake lees. It’s delicious, give it a try and let me know what you think!

Don’t forget to check out some of the local favorites as well. Sapporo is the birthplace of miso-style ramen, or so they say. Don’t miss it!

Check out the romantic Otaru Snow Light Walk

Otaru is cute harbor town about 30 km from Sapporo, with a lot to do! 小樽雪あかりの路, Otaru Yuki Akari no Michi, or Otaru’s Snow Light Path is super romantic and since it coincides with Sapporo Snow Festival. Well, sort of. In 2020, it is from February 9th to 16th, it makes a great side trip if you are in Sapporo for the latter part of the festival.

This is the youngest of the four festivals in this article that started in 1999 has grown to 40 venues around the city. The most stunning being the 200 or so small candles strung across the canal waters. And this is Japan, so there is a stamp rally at each of the venues! So look out to add to your collection.

If you just walk around at night time, you’ll find the different areas all lit up. It’s truly magical.

Getting to Otaru

Otaru is the last major stop on the train line before they neck down to a “one-man” situation (read more about that here). They run about twice an hour so it’s easy to commute between Sapporo and Otaru!

See Japan’s Largest Snow Sculpture at Asahikawa Winter Festival

2020 marks the 61st Asahikawa Winter Festival (旭川冬まつり, Asahikawa Fuyu Matsuri). While China holds the Guiness World Record for largest snow sculpture in the world, Asahikawa must certainly have the largest in Japan. Fun fact: The festival that beat out Asahikawa (they held the record in the 1990s)? Harbin International Ice and Snow Sculpture Festival, Harbin and Asahikawa are celebrating 25 years of friendship in 2020! And perhaps a bit of competition?

The venue events revolve around the main snow sculpture that doubles as a stage next to the river in town. For 2020 the main snow sculpture is call “With one heart in mind” and features the Olympics (who’s surprised with 2020 coming up fast?!). At 140 m wide x 40 m deep x 20 m high, it will be a sight. When I last went in 2019, the main display featured a Japanese castle and doubled as not only a stage but also a slide.

Snow activities to keep you busy

Along with the slide, Asahikawa features a lot of other snow activities including a zip line, snow rafting behind a snow mobile, a snow maze and more. Probably the cutest is you can decorate your own snow man!

Don’t miss the International Ice Sculpture Competition that happens in conjunction with the winter festival. Located along Heiwa Dori near the train station, the 1 km long stretch of road has around 50 ice sculptures to check out.

Getting to the festival itself is a bit longer of a trek, but don’t worry, there is free shuttle that runs from the station during the festival.

Asahikawa side trips

You made the trek up, what’s there besides the two festivals? I recommend checking out the Asahiyama Zoo. It’s one of the best I’ve seen in Japan. The animals in the snow are super cute, you can even see a penguin march!

Getting to Asahikawa

Not as difficult as the next. Take the limited express trains that run from Sapporo Station to Asahikawa Station. They are your best bet for travelling to the festival and most efficient!

Blue ice at Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival

Reaching its 40th year in 2018, the Lake Shikotsu Ice Festival is from January 24 till February 16 for the 2020 season, in Shikotsu-Toya National Park. It’s the longest running of the festivals I’ve mentioned so you have the most time to play with it. Which is a good thing, because you’ve got to want to get to this one.

This would be one of the few times that I might suggest renting a car in Japan, and I’ve got some tips on that here. However, there are many tours offered from Sapporo and Chitose that will get you there as well as the option to take a bus. Perhaps the best option is to combine the trip with staying in a Ryokan (Japanese traditional hotel) as the area is known for its onsens. If you go with that option, many of them have shuttles from the airport which also helps with the getting there option.

The ice sculptures themselves are made by spraying water from Lake Shikotsu and have a blue tint to them called, rather unimaginatively “Lake Shikotsu Blue”. The lake was formed by a volcano and is considered some of the purest water in Japan. The sculptures are illuminated up at night time and there are ice slides, rinks and horse drawn carriages to keep you busy as well.

On Saturdays and Sundays during the event at 1830 there are firework displays and Wadaiko drum performances.

Dressing for the Snow Festival

Hokkaido is COLD. Especially during the snow festivals. You will want all of your winter gear – hat, scarf, gloves and a thick jacket. If you want to go full Japanese, I suggest some heat tech gear from Uniqlo – one of my favorite Japan shops to shop in.

Also note that the roads can definitely get slippery, especially if it was sunny all day but still wet – i.e. black ice conditions. The paths at the festivals can be slippery too – I’ve fallen my fair share of times! They don’t call me AP for no reason.

At the Tsudome area, it is also a good idea to have full snow playing gear on (think ski pants!).

Where to Stay

Sapporo is a great jumping ground for each of the above festivals, if you want to spend more time in Hokkaido’s capital. There is plenty to do besides just the snow! But that’s also valid in the other areas as well and each has hotel options available.

Other Side Trips

If you are a skier, don’t miss Niseko! It’s a great resort, while busy, there is enough terrain to keep even a crowded day not too crowded. Plus, you made it all the way to the Northern Island, you should take advantage! And don’t forget there are some of the 100 finest castles up this way too!

Access to Hokkaido

Taking the shinkansen is definitely an option (and you know how I love taking the train), especially if you’d like to hit some of northern Honshu, like Aomori. However, if time is of the essence, the best bet most likely to take a plane up to the New Chitose Airport.

From there you can take a JR train to Sapporo Station. There are local options but if you take the high-speed “Rapid Airport” train, the ride only takes about 37 minutes. Faster than a car – I love Japan’s public transportation!

That lovely cold air I was mentioning? You won’t have to deal with it right away as the JR New Chitose Airport Station is directly connected to the airport’s basement floor.

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The first time I saw Yosakoi (よさこい) was when I was in Japan on a work trip in 2013. I had no idea what it was called. I couldn’t read Hiragana yet and none of the signs had anything to give it away. It was hot and balmy in the middle of Tokyo, as August tends to be. My friend and I headed up to Yoyogi Park (Pro tip, there’s always something in Yoyogi on the weekends!) to see what was going on.

And I was blown away.

These festivals have a way of getting into your soul with the upbeat music and the high energy dance style. You may think that it’s been around a while, but it has a surprisingly short history mixed in with some very old elements.

History of Yosakoi

Yosakoi began in Kochi Prefecture on the island of Shikoku in Japan. There is mention that at the 南国高知産業大博覧会 (translating organization names is hard but basically the “Kochi Industry Exhibition”) in 1950 there was a performance of the dance. It wasn’t for another few years though that he Kochi Chamber of Commerce and Industry organized the first Yosakoi Festival in 1954. A multi-faceted attempt at recovering the economy and the people of Koichi after the war.

A bit of competition?

However, if you look through the internet closer, on the Japanese side at least, there’s definitely a bit of competition between Kochi and Tokushima Prefecture, whom already had Awa Odori festival. What’s Awa Odori? Generally considered the largest dance festival in Japan, it’s been taking place since the 1580s(!!). There are quotes to the extent of “let’s make a festival better than Awa Odori!”.

Let’s go to both!

With Tokushima’s festival from August 12 to 15 and Kochi’s from August 9-12 every year, if you have the chance — go to both!. Whereas they are both centered around dancing now, they are definitely still some roots to obon as well which is given away by the time of year. However, Kochi’s claims that this was “the best weather days”.

What’s “Yosakoi” mean?

You won’t find that word translated in any dictionary that I’ve been able to find. Some say it’s a local dialect but really it’s more complicated than that. So the dance (which is based off of Awa Odori, by the way) was made in 1950 but the “official music” didn’t follow till right before the festival origination. There is an old folk song in Kochi prefecture that’s been around since Edo times that talks of a love affair between a Monk and young maiden in the castle town of Kochi. A completely taboo thing to have going on.

“よさこい節”

There’s a line in the song saying “Yosakoi”. Written in Kanji is “夜さ来い”, and though that’s not normal Japanese anymore, means “Come at night”. You see where this is going… Though I think there is some more morbid pieces to the song and I wish I understood Japanese better! Because that line is repeated a lot the song is just referred to as “よさこい節” or “Yosakoi Bushi”. That normally gets translated to as “clause” from what I’ve seen but can also mean “stanza” or “melody” which are more appropriate.

Due to the popularity of the folk song, it was one of the pieces incorporated into the composition. Most of the festivals I’ve been to are during the day BUT the original? Always starts the first day at night!

Five Necessary Requirements

There are now over 200+ festivals around the country, what are the consistent factors?

#1 Music

We kind of touched on this part with the meaning behind the word. It’s kind of similar with obon where there’s practically an “official” song. However, in this case, there legitimately is.

Be prepared to have this song stuck in your head after attending a festival: “Yosakoi Naruko Odori” (よさこい鳴子踊り) by Eisaku Takemasa. The song actually incorporates a few local folk songs into it from what I can tell. However, you HAVE to use part of the lyrics from よさこい節 for it to count.

Just the lyrics? you ask. So, there’s no copyright on it so where as the words are mandatory, many of the teams compose there own compilations to go with it. Styles range from the original “bon-type”, as I like to say, music to rock, samba, anything!

Don’t worry, the song will still get stuck in your head.

#2 Naruko (鳴子) or wooden clapper

Teams are allowed to have all sorts of props during their performances. However, you MUST have a Naruko. The kanji on this one 鳴子 can be split as “sound” and “child” which I think is hilarious. Originally, Naruko was a tool to scare birds hanging out at fields. They are small wooden panels with three wood “finger” sticks on each side so that when you twist your wrist, the sticks tap on the paddle and make a noise.

Traditionally, these are painted black and yellow. But now teams paint them all sorts of colors. Many times at festivals, you can find booths where you can make your own. I have ones with my name engraved on the handle.

There’s that competition again

Remember how I say there HAS to be a competitive factor between Kochi and Tokushima’s Awa Odori? Awa Odori is famous for its style with bare hands. So, of course, we can’t have something matching! So Yosakoi started to use instruments. Naruko was already used by the locals so they went with that.

While Naruko are “mandatory” for it to be considered Yosakoi, many teams have various other props they use as well. From parasols, to lanterns, fans, and flags.

#3 Costume

I’m not going to be able to do this justice. Sure, all dance styles have costumes. These are so amazingly unique though. When Yosakoi first started, men and women simply work Yukata. Japan’s summer traditional clothing of lighter cloth than kimonos. But now, these are works of art. Vibrant colors, different styles — though still harkening from their traditional pasts.

What gets me though? Most have “costume changes” that are built into the very fabric of the outfit. These have got to be absurdly hot as it’s summer usually when this is going after all! But it is like a game to see if you notice them mid act switching gears into something all together new.

# 4 Jikatasha 地方車（じかたしゃ）

OK, another weird local/old Japanese word. Jikatasha translates to “regional car”. These are trucks, so I guess its something like they were used regionally to move goods? Anyway, it’s basically a truck and what’s that have to do with dancing?!

Jikatasha didn’t show up until the 4th Yosakoi Festival in Kochi. They are a way to signify a new team and generally have the team logo or name on them. Think of it like a float. It also serves as mobile live stage. I actually wonder what they did for the music at first because this is how the sound systems and/or band reside now.

#5 Dance!

Where as it started as a specific dance based off Awa Odori, it’s evolved and become more fusion of basically anything you want. The best part too is this is open to everyone! You have men and women of all ages taking in on the fun. From small children to grandparents!

Main Festivals to put on your list

What started in Kochi has now turned into hundreds of Yosakoi festivals all over Japan so chances are you can find one where you are visiting. However, if you want to go to one of the “big” names, here’s your choices.

Koichi Yosakoi Festival

The original! What started with 21 teams and 750 participants, now over 60 years later, is closer to 20,000 dancers!

The Yosakoi Festival in Kochi is one of Japan’s 10 largest festivals. The festival is held from August 9 to 12 every year, starts with a fireworks display, it’s summer after all – Japan loves fireworks!

If you miss the main event, don’t worry, Kochi has you covered. Teams perform in the city’s central arcade every Sunday from May to July and in front of JR Kochi Station every Sunday from August to December.

There is also a museum you can go to which I missed when I was there for Kochi Castle.

Super Yosakoi in Harajuku, Tokyo

Since 2001, the local shopping avenue association “Harajyuku Omotesando Keyaki-kai” has organized the Harajuku Omotesando Genki-matsuri Festival or in other words Super Yosakoi! Are you seeing a pattern? These completely started as a reason to get people to shop!

Held the last weekend of August, it’s how I was originally introduced and a must see if you are in Tokyo. Performances are held at multiple venues with stage and parade performances.

Yosakoi Soran Festival in Sapporo

Yosakoi Soran Festival held in Sapporo is a combination of Yosakoi and Soran, a type of dance specific to Hokkaido. Around 1991, a student from Hokkaido happened to see the festival in Kochi and brought it back with him to Hokkaido, or so the story goes.

What started as 10 teams and 1,000 dancers in June, it is now a major event attracting some 30,000 dancers from Japan and abroad. Similar to the Snow Festival in winter, the main venue is Odori Park. There are both stage and parade performances to watch and of course, a lot of food!

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