If you have been following along for a while, it should come as no surprise to you that I love Japanese castles! If you’ve missed the articles and IG posts until now, you may have seen the running tally of how many I’ve been to on the home page for Kristen Abroad. There are so many Japanese castles to visit, where do you start? While there are many not in this category I’d also recommend, if you have limited time for Japanese castle exploration, you really should start with 12 original Japanese castles remaining.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in January of 2019 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

現存12天守 Quick Japanese Lesson

While it’s time-consuming thanks to my level of Japanese, I love doing research in Japanese. Though I still owe a debt of gratitude to Wanikani and the Minna no Nihongo series, along with so many other Japanese resources ( including my Japanese sensei at conversation classes)!

The 12 original Japanese castles are actually referring to the original Japanese castle keeps which in Japanese are usually referred to as 現存12天守. And because Japanese fascinates me, you get a quick lesson ;).

• 天守 = Tenshu, or castle tower. This term refers to the main castle keep as in Japanese castle design there are normally other towers on the complex as well. It is also sometimes referred to as “天守閣” or tenshukaku.
• 現存 = Genzon or “existing”. While that is true, they ARE existing, the English makes that somewhat confusing as there are other “Existing” Japanese castles that have been more recently re-constructed.

That said, when you see “the existing 12 Japanese castle keeps”, in Japanese they are referring to the Edo-period and older castles.

National Treasures, Important Cultural Properties, and Other titles

Most of the 12 have multiple designated titles of importance. Japan likes lists of 3 and 100. They all are considered as part of the 100 finest castles of Japan but there’s more that make these the Japanese castles to visit.

We’ll start with world clout. Himeji Castle was designated as Japan’s first UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Nationwide, five of the 12 are considered National Treasures: Hakone, Himeji, Inuyama, Matsue, and Matsumoto. I like to call Inuyama the most pretentious of the bunch. In the other 11 castles, there is a reference to all 12 castles (usually in pictures lining the overhead of the lookout area of the castle). Inuyama? Just shows the five that are designated as National Treasures.

The other 7 are designated “only” as Important Cultural Properties. However, most all are part of the さくら名所100選 (100 Famous Sakura Places – there’s actually 134 locations, we like lists of 100 but they aren’t always exactly 100).

Which is the oldest of the 12 original Japanese castles

I think the funniest is that at least three of them claim “I’m the oldest” somewhere on their property. Keep a lookout for signs, the first one I was at that I saw “oldest” I was so excited. Then I saw it at another and was like, wait a second…

Inuyama is one of them. Hence back to my pretentious joke.

If you go solely by when they were originally made Bitchu-Matsuyama wins hands down with an 11th-century build. However, that was on a neighboring mountain and they moved it to its current location later. The keep itself, the important part of the “which is older” at Bitchu-Matsuyama is younger than the others.

You also have the matter that regardless of when they were originally built, most had at least some fire or damage from war over the years. If you factor in what and how much was rebuilt and when, it starts to get tricky.  And of course, are we talking about the castle or the keep? Which is where I think the good majority comes from.

And Inuyama Castle has them on the keep initial construction start date (yes, you have to be that specific. The oldest castle that started construction on a Tuesday 😉 – I kid).

A general aside: I can’t imagine the amount of work it is to move so much material without the help of modern machines!

On the note of these castles being so old, this is definitely a situation you will need to take your shoes off in Japan for!

Where have all the castles gone?

There was a massive push to building Japanese castles in the late 1500s and early 1600s. I joke that they sent out carrier pigeons because the timing is creepily similar for the spread of land with no mass communication like today. You may have noticed while researching a trip in Japan that Japan is basically the size of the eastern seaboard of America.

There are estimated thousands of castles across Japan at that point. However, once the Tokugawa took over, there was a “一國一城令” or “one country, one castle order”. Lots of the 300 or so daimyo lords across Japan had to consolidate into one castle and the rest destroyed.

During the Meiji Period, there was a force in the works to get rid of all the castles as part of the Meiji restoration, otherwise, we’d have a lot more original Japanese Castles to visit. 

廢城令, or terminate the castle’s decree. Seen as symbols of the old regime, most were dismantled.  Some left just to degrade into disrepair.  Many other original Japanese castles then succumbed to earthquakes or fires or wars.  What we have left today is a testimony to those that stood up for keeping the heritage.  Mostly local movements.

12 Original Japanese Castles to visit and their keeps

Here are the 12 original Japanese castles in alphabetical order, as to not cause contention. If you’ve followed my travels for a while, you know which I think are the best original Japanese castles. Click through to their individual posts for more information on each!

Bitchu Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城）

Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle (備中松山城) to not confuse it with the other Matsuyama castle in the list of original Japanese castles, this one is in Okayama Prefecture.  It is the only one on top of a true mountain and the highest for that reason. Which makes the name even funnier as it’s a ***** to get to.

There’s no easy way to get to the top, even if you get dropped by a taxi you’ll still have a section of the mountain to hike up but it is beautiful when you do. If you are lucky you’ll be above the clouds!

Hikone Castle (彦根城)

One of the national treasures, Hikone Castle (彦根城) is on the smaller side with only a three-tier donjon, however, I’d put it as my second favorite. Located in Shiga Prefecture. It has this beautiful garden and some unique features – like the fact it was made completely out of another near by castle. Talk about recycling!

It was on the docket to have been dismantled as part of the Meiji Restoration but was saved.

Himeji Castle (姫路城)

Considered the largest of the originals, and really, there shouldn’t be contention.  Himeji Castle (姫路城) consists of some 83 buildings and the main keep is a giant 5 stories. Located in Himeji City in Hyogo Prefecture. She’s also one of the National Treasures.

You’ll need a fair amount of time to explore it all, while I’m probably the weirdo that doesn’t place this as number 1 it is still absolutely breathtaking and in my top 3. Luckily, getting to Himeji is super easy as it has its own shinkansen station

Hirosaki Castle (弘前城)

The farthest north of the original 12 Japanese castles to visit in Aomori Prefecture is Hirosaki Castle. It was originally called Takaoka Castle (there’s another one of those in the continuing list of 100 famous Japanese castles) with an original keep that was 5 stories tall that was burned in a fire.

Another of the Tokugawa’s rules was about the size of the keeps so when it was rebuilt, they were only allowed to rebuild a 3 story one.   Hirosaki Castle (弘前城) is currently relocated to reinforce the walls.  A feat in itself.

With Hirosaki Castle off by itself, you’ll definitely want to hit some of the local attractions as well. I love Aomori and Hirosaki is known for all things apples – fruit, pies, curry, random apple decorations, you name it!

Inuyama Castle (犬山城）

The aforementioned pretentious castle, Inuyama Castle (犬山城).  One of the national treasures and self–claimed oldest. Located in Aichi Prefecture.

Don’t miss the shopping street immediately in front of the castle entrance while you are here for some local food and omiyage (souvenir) shopping.

Kōchi Castle（高知城)

One of the newer of the 12 due to a fire that burnt her down.  Kochi Castle (高知城) was still rebuilt before the “cut off” though.  Kochi is the most southern prefecture in Shikoku. Unique to Kochi is that the palace is still remaining and one of the few instances where it was attached to the castle. In fact, ALL of the honmaru (1st bailey) is intact.

It’s honestly quite hard to rank the twelve against each other but this is one of my favorites. The town of Kochi has an interesting history of whale hunting so if that’s something you are against, be forewarned there is a display in a section of the castle for it.

Marugame Castle (丸亀城）

The smallest of the lot but Marugame Castle (丸亀城) still with character. Prepare for a steep hike up the hill to see the keep.  Many of the original walls are still there and famous for the fan shapes. Located on the island of Shikoku in Kagawa Prefecture.

The view out to the sea from the top is pretty amazing. Just are the stone walls, at 60 meters high they are the tallest in Japan.

Maruoka Castle (丸岡城)

Located in Fukui Prefecture, Maruoka Castle (丸岡城) probably has the stretchiest claim to the 12 as it was nearly flattened in an earthquake during last century.  However, they were able to jigsaw her back together with most of her same parts. She’s located in Fukui Prefecture.

Best part about that sketchy claim? She’s another one that claims to be the oldest Japanese castle. Don’t miss her neighboring Kasumigajo park garden, while new, they are still very nice and you can have a cup of green tea or some beer like I did while you enjoy the view.

Matsue Castle (松江城)

The 2nd largest (Matsumoto might fight her on that one), 3rd tallest, and 5th oldest, Matsue Castle (松江城) is also the farthest west on mainland Japan in Matsue, Shimane Prefecture.

Matsue and neighboring Tottori have so much to see (don’t miss the sand dunes, sand dune museum, and another of the 100 famous castles, Tottori Castle).

Matsumoto Castle (松本城)

One of the five National Treasures. Matsumoto Castle (松本城) is also one of the contenders for the oldest. Oh, you know how Inuyama only shows the 5 national treasures on display and ignore the other 7? Yeah, Matsumoto doesn’t give a !@#$ about the other 11. Winner of most pretentious! 🙂

Matsumoto Castle from the outside looks like 5 stories but on the inside it is actually 6. It also has the feature that it is multiple towers smushed next to each other. Nicknamed the “Crow castle” for its black exterior, its large moat makes for some spectacular photos.

Another town that you’ll want to spend some time walking around the city in. Lots of older buildings and some great beer to check out as well.

Matsuyama Castle (松山城）

I know I said I wouldn’t mention my favorite, but this is it! Matsuyama Castle (松山城) takes the cake of any of them. Even Himeji which is probably the most widely known. Located on Shikoku in Ehime prefecture.

Fun fact: Ehime is the only Prefecture with more than one of the 12 original Japanese castles to visit.

Uwajima Castle (宇和島城)

Uwajima Castle (宇和島城) is definitely a baby castle but worth the visit as it finishes out the 12! Located in Ehime Prefecture as well, but still, a bit of a ride from Matsuyama, especially if it is like when I went and hue amounts of rain had taken out part of the train tracks.

Stamp Rally

Don’t forget to get your guidebook to add these to your stamp rally for the 100 Finest Castles of Japan!  The designation set by the Japan Castle Foundation in 2006 and further in 2017.

12 Original Japanese Castles Map

As you can see by the below map, you aren’t going to be hitting these all in one day! Frankly, I love how much they are spread out because it gives you the opportunity to see so much more of this beautiful country.

Original Japanese Castles Hiking Courses

It is super easy to get exercise in Japan with all the walking around you can do. Having such a great public transportation system (between the buses, trains, and shinkansen) helps that. But also the general “culture” of Japan. Case in point – hiking courses (we’d call them trails but it’s courses in Japan). Most all Japanese castles to visit have courses mapped out for you already. Or you can make your own with your fitness device, I love my Garmin Fenix 6s.

Not that you necessarily need an extra route to hike when some of these castles are massive! But if you are staying in a particular city for a few days, I’d suggest giving it a go, there are always beautiful views and random artifacts hidden around.

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Matsuyama Castle (松山城, Matsuyamajyou) is officially my favorite Japanese Castle. One of the original twelve Edo period castles remaining, first constructed in the 1600s. It is located on Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four islands in Ehime prefecture.

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in September of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy, and comprehensiveness.]

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

What does it mean to be an “original 12” Edo Period Castle?

There are 12 castles in Japan that are considered “original castles”. While there are bits and pieces of many of the estimated thousands of castles in Japan, and lots of reconstruction, the originals “made it out alive” so to speak. When the Meiji Restoration took hold in the 1860s, the castles were ordered to be dismantled. Want to unite a country under one central government? Take out all of the seats of power of the old system. Only the 12 were allowed to remain.

The castle keep while construction started early in the 1600s like most of the other castles, was completed in 1635 (my thoughts on why that was in a bit). It was struck by lightning in the late 1700s burning it to the ground, as wood structures are ought to do. The main keep was then rebuilt and finished in 1854. Just in the knick of time to have it all threatened to be torn down again!

Other Matsuyama Castles

When searching for details (though I hope I give you a good overview here!), make sure to look up the correct Matsuyama Castle. There are several others.

Next to the rather unique Yoshimi Hundred Caves in Saitama Prefecture s the castle remains of a different Matsuyama Castle. It holds the title of a historic site and is actually the location of several differently named castles over the years. What remains is just earthworks but it’s a fun little hike.

Another of the 12 original (現存12天守) is Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle in Okayama Prefecture has “Bitchu” on the front to distinguish it from Matsuyama Castle in Ehime. Bitchu is the city name, it also holds the title of highest of the 12 original castles.

Then two others I haven’t been to yet, Uda Matsuyama Castle in Nara Prefecture is only ruins remaining but part of the continuing 100 castle stamp quest. Another is in Gunma Prefecture.

Why so many castles with the same name? 松山 = Pine Mountain.

Matsuyama Castle: A castle on a hill

The honmaru (literally, “first circle” and corresponds to defense rings, normally translated as bailey) main keep of the castle sits on a 132-meter hill. With the maze of paths to get to the top, I’d have died 50 times over if I tried to get in. Multitudes of gates, giant reinforced walls, all sorts of ways to keep people out.

I wish I had gotten video of me “scaling” the castle as I’m sure it was a sight to see. You can truly feel like you are back in the 1600s with a samurai hiding around any corner while you are walking here. Matsuyama Castle matches Hikone Castle in that it has 登り石垣 or climbing stone walls, a style that is thought to have been learned from the Koreans (if you’ve been to Seoul, you’ve seen something similar).

Once you reach the top, there are amazing panoramas of the surrounding city and a great view of the Seto Inland Sea. But wait until you get to the main castle keep, it’s awe-inspiring. You really get a feel for what a castle is supposed to be in its full glory. Its style is unique to most other castles in which it has a sort of courtyard in the middle. Better to shoot the enemy at if they somehow managed to make it all the way here.

Speaking of, the castle keep was only really used in a siege scenario, the lord would have spent most of their time at the palace below.

Important Cultural Property

Matsuyama Castle obtained Important Cultural Property status in 1935. There are only five of the “original” castles that have “National Treasure” status but many with Important Cultural Property including some rebuilds, like Nagoya Castle and its palace (which unlike Kawagoe’s, has had extensive work done to it). Though honestly, it is interesting to me that Matsuyama is NOT a National Treasure, but I’m biased.

The main tower (tenshu) is what makes it “one of the 12” original castles. but it’s not the only important cultural property. There are 21 buildings in total that are important cultural properties at Matsuyama Castle.

1. 天守, tenshu, main tower
2. 三ノ門南櫓, Sannomon South Tower
3. 二ノ門南櫓, Ninomon South Tower
4. 一ノ門南櫓, Ichinomon South Tower
5. 乾櫓, Inui Tower
6. 野原櫓, Nohara Tower
7. 仕切門, Partition Gate
8. 三ノ門, Sannomon
9. 二ノ門, Ninomon
10. 一ノ門, Ichinomon
11. 紫竹門, Shichiku (Bamboo) mon
12. 隠門, Kakure (Hidden) Gate
13. 隠門続櫓, Kakure (Hidden) Gate Turret
14. 戸無門, Tonashi (Doorless) Gate
15. 仕切門内塀, Partition Gate Inner Wall
16. 三ノ門東塀, Sannomon East Wall
17. 筋鉄門東塀, Tetsumon East Wall
18. 二ノ門東塀, Ninomon East Wall
19. 一ノ門東塀, Ichinomon East Wall
20. 紫竹門東塀, Shichikumon East Wall
21. 紫竹門西塀, Shichikumon West Wall

Matsuyama Castle construction

You may have noticed in the pictures a rather flat area at the top of the hill (yes, it’s a “mountain” but not a very big one). Actually, that 132-meter hill used to be TWO hills at the top, but they filled in the gap between them, talk about a lot of work and why I think it took so long to make, though I haven’t seen anything that actually says that.

One question I had when I saw that little factoid, was where did all the stone come from? Can you imagine the amount of work that took? There was a note on the visitor brochure that women carried pebbles on baskets on their heads from Masaki to Matsuyama. That’s over SIX miles! Most of the larger stone came from an earlier castle’s foundation. Victors prize and a lot easier than moving large distances.

The inside of the castle has some museum aspects to it, like a neat display on the joiner work for all of the wood to make it stronger, but the main sight is to see this castle in its glory.

Ninomaru Historical Garden

Not to be missed is this Japanese Garden in the Ninomaru, or second circle/ bailey. Where once stood a giant palace, now the foundation outlines a garden. The flowers are changing throughout the year to give you another reason to keep coming back as if you will need one after seeing this place.

If you needed another thing to check off your list, there is a “Lover’s Sanctuary” spot here like the one in Ryusendo Caves. There are over 100 around the country to find!

Is there a moat at Matsuyama Castle?

The flat land park that you will pass on your way from the train station known as Horinouchi is surrounded by a moat to this day. It makes for some nice pictures looking at the mountain fortress.

Why is Matsuyama Castle my favorite Japanese castle?

Matsuyama Castles has a certain character to it that I haven’t seen anywhere else. Generally speaking, the keeps are all multi-floor structures (that don’t always match their exterior tiers), but Matsuyama has wings which are fairly uncommon in Japanese keeps. Next to Himeji Castle, it has the most complete representation of probably any in Japan which gives you a better feel for what it was actually like. And yes, Himeji is AMAZING, but Matsuyama just has a certain character about it.

It’s also one of the 100 finest castles of Japan so don’t forget your stamp!

Getting to Matsuyama Castle

If you aren’t keen on hiking the 132-meter hill (though if you are, there are several hiking courses to get your steps in, which I love tracking with my Garmin Fenix 6S), you can take a ropeway to the top. Similar to a ramen shop, you’ll get your tickets from a machine. If you have luggage with you, they have coin lockers for you to use.

Think of the ropeway as a gondola like you take getting to the black eggs at Owakudani in Hakone. Want something a little more “open-aired”? They also have a ski lift version that runs next to the ropeway with single seats.

In the station building, there is a display dedicated to the castle mascot. Japan loves their mascots and you could make a game of finding as many as you can. Matsuyama Castle’s is appropriately a samurai.

You’ll still have a bit of a walk to the castle keep from the ropeway landing. If you take the ropeway up, I suggest you take the hike back down the mountain. It’s worth it to see all the back and forth of the many defenses at this castle’s disposal. It’s also how you can get to Ninomaru Historical Gardens.

It’s about a mile from the main train station in Matsuyama to get to the castle or you can take a trolley. My suggestion would be to either go trolley (unless you need some more steps!) – ropeway – main keep – ninomaru gardens and walk back or that in reverse.

When planning a trip to Japan, you may not know about Tottori on the Western Side on Honshu in the Chugoku region. The least populated prefecture, Tottori is located along the Sea of Japan and further designated a part of the San-in Region. It’s famous for its かに, crabs, and sand dunes, there is a lot to see in the capital city of Tottori Prefecture, Japan.  Welcome to Tottori!

[Editor’s Note: This post was originally published in December of 2018 and has been updated for freshness, accuracy and comprehensiveness.]

1. Tottori Sand Dunes (鳥取砂丘, Tottori sakyu)

Tottori Sand Dunes may be the main reason for a visit.  These geological wonders were created thousands of years ago between a combination of soil from the rivers and wind blow sand from the sea. Easily 100 ft in height, they make an interesting contrast to Japan’s usually green landscape.

The visitor center gives you a quick overview of the history as well as the plants and animals that are indigenous to the dunes. There’s some interesting pictures from the 20th century to how they have changed over time as well.

If adventure travel is your thing, there is a myriad of activities for you here. Ride on canal back, go sandboarding, or catch a hang glider. There’s even a ski lift to give you more of a birds-eye view.

If you happen to be visiting in Winter, you might want to fight the cold winds coming off the sea for the Sakyu winter illuminations! If you miss them there, depending on where you are illuminations run near half the year so plenty of opportunities around Japan!

The Tottori Sand Dunes are part of the larger San’in Kaigan UNESCO Global Geopark. Unlike UNESCO World Heritage sites (which Japan has many of), the purpose of the geoparks is not just to conserve the natural heritage but to use it for education and revitalization as well. As such, they are required to have tours so that’s another thing to take advantage of!

2. Tottori Sand Museum (鳥取砂の美術館, Tottori suna no bijutsukan）

When you hear “sand museum” you may think of it as a geological exhibit. This is not. Since 2006 the Tottori Sand Museum has been “Japan’s only open-air museum with statues of created from sand”. Japan like’s their originality!

The museum invites some of the highest level of sand sculptors from around the world to put their work on display here.

The 11th exhibition at the Tottori Sand Museum was all Nordic related. From castles to Edvard Munch’s The Scream, to Nordic folklore such as The Little Mermaid and Odin.

Every year the exhibition changes themes and in the past it has been UK, Germany, America, and Asia wonders.

3. Tottori Castle Ruins (鳥取城跡, Tottorijōato)

Sometimes ruins are literally just mounds of dirt and a few rocks where one once stood (looking at you, Takaoka Castle). Of which, it’s hard to imagine what happened to all the construction material. Others, like with Tottori Castle Ruins, the walls for the baileys still remain and it is almost like it was some feat of magic, and not because they are missing, that you can’t see the buildings. There is also one of the gates.

Tottori is famous in Japan for a 200-day siege that starved out the defenders in 1581. That’s what happens when you take full advantage of the landscape. The actual castle keep stood at the summit of the mountain, a few hundred meters above sea level. With massive walls of lower defenses and a river moat.

If you like to hike, you can still make it up some trails to the top. Or there is plenty of walking and climbing you can do on the lower levels of what remains.

4. Colonial House, Jinpukaku, 仁風閣

When Tottori Castle still remained on the site, the Ohgi Goten, Fan Palace, stood in this location on the lower bailey. It held the name fan due to Tottori being laid out in a fan shape. Hence, the Jinpukaku is often time referred to as the same.

It was constructed in 1906 for the same reason as Kouunkaku in Matsue. To be used by the crown prince on his visit to the city. Rather an extravagant welcoming if you ask me. The house was the first in the PREFECTURE to have electric lights.

It’s been used for many things over the years but now remains an exhibit and a National Important Cultural Property.

The house has beautiful gardens in the back with a backdrop of the castle wall ruins. Horyuin Garden is its name. It was consolation for the widow of one of the Lords and the paint has seen better days. It was a part of a movie at one point, and it looks like they did a speedy job of it, and since the Japanese humidity has gotten the best of it.

One note, if you are accomplishing the stamp rally for the 100 finest Japanese castles, you need to make a trip to this house to get your stamp for Tottori Castle ruins. Mystery solved for where the stamps are for the ruins!

5. Karoichi Fish Market

Karoichi Fish Market is just minutes from the port. If you’ve been to Tsukiji, it will be slightly underwhelming. However, Tottori is known for its 松葉かに (matsuba crab), enough so that they are nicknamed ”蟹取県” or “kani tori ken”. Kani = crab; tori for the last half of Tottori; Ken =prefecture” or plainly, “crab prefecture”.

What will you see a lot of in this little market? Crab. But also fish of all types, vegetables at the peripheral market, Tottori wagyu and rice.

What is Matsuba Crab?

Matsuba Crab is a funny name as the kanji literally is “pine needle” but it comes from the fact that the legs are thin like pine needles. Ultimately, they are the same as snow crabs but Matsuba crabs are specifically from the San’in region of Japan.

6. 鳥取賀露かにっこ館 (Tottori Karo Kanikkokan, Tottori Karo Crab Aquarium

If you didn’t see enough crabs at the market, you can head next door to the 鳥取賀露かにっこ館 (Tottori Karo Kanikkokan, Tottori Karo Crab Aquarium) and see exhibits of all the different various types of crab of the region.

While it is small and more geared at young children, admission is free! If you are next door at the Karoichi Fish Market, it’s worth a stop in.

7. Have some of the 地元の味 (jigenoaji, local taste)

Statistics say that the crab consumption per household is five times the national average in Tottori City! So why not try some of the “地元の味” (jigenoaji, local taste)?

There are several crab restaurants located close to the market (along with some sushi restaurants). Highly recommend trying one of them out. Prices get steep fast but it will be some of the best crab you’ve ever tried. Look for a 定食, teishoku, or set meal.

Across the street from the Karoichi Market is a restaurant/izakaya and store specializing in matsuba crab called かに大陸 (kanitairiku) which translates into “Crab Continent”. They’re set meal has the option to include 飲み放題 (nomihoudai or all-you-can-drink) and will run you about $100 USD.

This will come with rice, a bunch of side dishes, miso (most likely with crab!), and your main course of crab. You can choose which style you want (boiled, grilled, baked), or you can try all of them usually. The price goes up the more options you add.

If you want to go even more high class on the crab options, Michelin made it to Tottori for the first time in 2019 and awarded two stars to Kani-Yoshi in town. The set courses start at 25,000 yen and go way up from there (pushing $800 USD).

Both restaurants buy freshly caught crab that morning from the port to serve the same day.

Other Tottori Regional Specialties

Not looking to spend a small fortune? Tottori is known for a lot of other dishes like:

• Horu soba (yakisoba with horumon as the meat)
• Gyuukotsu Ramen (Ramen made with cow bones as the broth base, which is less common than you would think)
• Tottori Wagyu (okay, that will run you a pretty penny but famous for it’s fat content)

8. Getting around town: Kirin Jishi Loop Bus

The loop bus is probably the most convenient way to get around. However, unless you are there in August, it only runs on weekends and holidays. You also have the option to take the city buses. If you need help, see our guide for riding buses.

For the loop pass, you can buy your 600 yen pass at the train station at the information booth (and they can provide an English version of the timetable) or onboard.

Don’t forget to grab your “stamp rally” stamp at the front of the train which gives you discounts and special treats such as a nice postcard at the Tottori Sand Museum. You’ll first need to get the stamp rally at the information booth, a reason to get your timetable at the information booth! Plus there is much to be said for tourism information booths in Japan!

The bus itself is a nice way to see the highlights of the town and why I’ve included it in the list of things to do (it will also get you everywhere that I’ve listed above!). If you don’t want the pass, it is 300 yen a trip so it’s worth it for an out and back even to get the pass, plus it makes a cute souvenir.

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

How to Get to Tottori By Train

Ah, the train, one of the best things about Japan. You can use your Japan Rail Pass to easily get to Tottori, though depending on where you are coming from it can be a bit of a hike!

From Okayama to Tottori

If you are trying to see western Japan and even Shikoku (for instance if you are attempting to see as many of the original 12 castles of Japan as possible), I highly suggest using Okayama as your jumping ground as it is an excellent hub to just about anywhere. It’s much easier to leave your bag in one location, even if you have to take a little longer on train travel.

From Okayama, hop on the JR Super Inaba line directly to Tottori. The trip is completely covered by the JR Rail Pass and takes about 1.75 hours.

From Kyoto to Tottori

You’ll want to get the Limited Express Hamakaze from Kyoto to Tottori which is also covered by the rail pass. Note that it leaves only during “commuting” hours but if you are using Kyoto as your hub and just want to do a day trip, those are the best options anyway!

You can also take the Super Hakuto Limited Express (also your option from Osaka) which is faster but it isn’t fully covered by the rail pass as it runs on non-JR tracks. The fee as of writing this is less than $20 USD but that is still fairly substantial so I’d go with the Hamakaze! For those of you that live in Japan, pick whichever works for you!

How to get to Tottori from Tokyo by Plane

Let’s face it, the shinkansen from Tokyo is a bit long at 6 hours. There are flights from Haneda to Tottori that take 75 minutes and if you can find a discounted ticket (or probably even full fair), will probably end up less expensive that the train if you live local and therefore can’t get the rail pass.

JAL and ANA Air Passes

People on visitor visas – it is still something to note, did you know that you can get air passes? It’s the same thing as the rail pass but for planes! Both JAL and ANA offer passes and it is a great option if you want to jump Japan’s four main islands, or even down to Okinawa as part of your trip to Japan!

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Have a question? Leave it for me in the comments.

You’ve decided you want to go to Japan, AWESOME! If you’ve missed it, I’m kind of a big proponent of this beautiful country. Researching and planning your trip to Japan can be a daunting experience though. Where do you start? Whom do you trust? With six years of experience and nearly all of the prefectures under my belt, let me put you on your course.

Understand the Geography: The Four Main Islands of Japan

While the Japanese archipelago (日本列島, Nihon Rettō) consists of well over 6,000 (!) islands, we tend to think of it as four main islands, Hokkaido, Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu, plus Okinawa. The former being “main land” Japan and the latter being part of Ryukyu Islands, a long chain south of Kyushu. Fun fact, Okinawa was its own nation for a very long time and explains their language differences.

Japan, though slightly smaller than California land mass wise, the land of the rising sun stretches in an arc about 2,900km (1,800 miles).  With over 70% mountainous terrain, it’s a very dense 127 Million people (American has about 200 million more than that, for reference).  Honshu, home of Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka (what I love to call the “circuit” of mainstream Japan itineraries), being most dense of all.

You don’t need to worry about flying between the mainland islands – they are all connected by tunnels or bridges! Adding to the convenience factor for the train system.

Know your Geography: The 47 Prefectures

Fun fact: There are 43 prefecture proper (県, ken), two “urban” prefectures (府, fu, Osaka and Kyoto fall under this), and then one “metropolis” prefecture…bet you can’t guess which.  I kid, I kid. Tokyo is 都, pronounced “tow”, not “to”.  Oh, and Hokkaido is it’s own animal with the 道 (dou) ending which usually means “road” or “way” but in this case its “district” prefecture.

The prefectures are further broken into regions, though they aren’t governmental, more so historic. A good way to start your plan for your trip to Japan is to narrow down which region you would like to see.

Hokkaido (北海道)

Hokkaido

Literally, the “North Sea District” though “District” could also be taken as “journey” (and that makes it sound more whimsical!), this island is the second largest in the Japanese archipelago and was originally inhabited by the Ainu.

Hokkaido features only one prefecture of the same name, making it the largest prefecture in Japan. It is also the least population-dense, with the capital of Sapporo the most happening place.  Big cities not your thing? The port town of Otaru is a quick train ride away.

Well known for its natural beauty, Hokkaido is where you want to be if you are an outdoor enthusiast.  World-renowned skiing in winter and plenty of hiking and white-water rafting once the snow melts. In winter it boasts many annual snow festivals to dazzle you.

Tohoku Region (東北地方)

Tohoku

Because we are very original with names in Japanese, Tohoku merely means “northeast”. Which is where it is located on the largest island of Japan, Honshu. It makes up six of the 47 prefectures, each with a bit of their own character partially due to the harsher climates of the region.

Sadly, probably most recognized as the location of the 2011 Earthquake, it is full of lakes, mountains (with some great skiing spots). Famous for several hot spring or onsen (温泉) areas, it also has some great castles (including Hirosaki, one of the 12 originals) and samurai residences. 

Don’t forget some very memorable summer festivals as well! Each of the six prefectures is known for their own.

Prefectures of Tohoku

• Aomori
• Iwate
• Miyagi
• Akita
• Yamagata
• Fukushima

Kanto Region (関東地方)

Kanto

Kanto (関東) can be translated to the “east of the gateway” and is the most extensive lowland of Japan which makes it also one of the most productive. Fun aside – the katakana-ized version is a region in Pokémon.

With Tokyo dead smack in the middle, the Kanto plain is the most populated and developed region of Japan with seven of the 47 prefectures. Nearly a third of the population lives here. There are plenty of cities besides Tokyo to keep any city lover occupied on a trip to Japan as well as having some more remote areas to get away from it all including UNESCO World Heritage Site, Nikko.

Prefectures of Kanto

• Ibaraki
• Tochigi
• Gunma
• Saitama
• Chiba
• Tokyo
• Kanagawa

Chubu Region (中部地方)

Chubu

Again, we’re naming things very directly. Chubu (中部) means “central part” and its nine prefectures are smack in the middle of the Kanto and Kansai regions on the island of Honshu. Due to its diversity, it’s sometimes further broken into three:

• Hokuriku region (北陸地方, “The north land”), the northwestern side which includes Kanazawa
• Koshin’etsu region (甲信越地方) which is a blended name of the three old provinces that it consisted of: Kai (modern day Yamanashi), Shinano (modern day Nagano) and Echigo (modern day Niigata).
• Tokai region (東海地方) which means “east sea region” and consist of those touching the sea

Probably most famous for Japan’s tallest mountain, Mount Fuji, and the Japanese Alps but it also includes many major cities, including Japan’s fourth-largest, Nagoya.  Don’t forget one of Japan’s National Treasures, Matsumoto Castle.

Prefectures of Chubu

• Niigata
• Toyama
• Ishikawa
• Fukui
• Yamanashi
• Nagano
• Gifu
• Shizuoka
• Aichi

Kansai (関西地方) or Kinki Region (近畿地方)

Kansai

I honestly didn’t realize it had two names until I was researching this post. Kinki (yes, pronounced like “kinky” and therefore part of the reason for the change) is directly linked to the areas around Kyoto whereas Kansai refers to the area “west of the gateway”. Gateway sounds better than “toll gate”, which is what it was. It’s still known governmentally as Kinki but tourism wise for those planning their first trip to Japan, it’s Kansai!

Located in the southern-central region of the island of Honshu, it is second-most populous after Kanto and includes seven prefectures. Home to not one, but two of Japan’s ancient capitals, Kyoto and Nara, the region is the best- known overseas (in my humble opinion) and is not lost in the number of tourists you will encounter.

You want culture and history? Come here.

Prefectures of Kansai

• Mie
• Shiga
• Kyoto
• Osaka
• Hyogo
• Nara
• Wakayama

Chugoku Region (中国地方)

Chugoku

Chugoku (中国) in this case translates as “central country” but it also, by itself, means “China” which as much as I tried, no one knows where the regions name comes from.  The westernmost region of Honshu island, it includes five prefectures.

Probably most recognized from the atomic bomb dropping in 1945 of Hiroshima, there are many things in the area to keep busy with including Itsukushima Shrine on Miyajima Island and several of the original 12 castles of Japan.

Prefectures of Chugoku

• Tottori
• Shimane
• Okayama
• Hiroshima
• Yamaguchi

Shikoku Region (四国地方)

Shikoku

The smallest of the main land islands, Shikoku has gone by many names over the year.  Literally translated as “four countries”, it refers to the four former regions: Awa, Tosa, Sanuki, and Iyo. It, to this day, still has four prefectures.

If volcanos aren’t your thing, this is the only of the main islands that doesn’t have one! There are still many famous onsen though from deep underground sources, including Dogo which is supposedly one of the country’s oldest.

With the island famous for the 88 Buddhist Temple Pilgrimage, you can spend a long time in this little place.  It is also home to four of the 12 original castles: Kochi Castle, Matsuyama (my absolute favorite), Marugame and Uwajima.  If military works are your thing, I’d definitely consider Shikoku for the main highlight of your trip to Japan.

Prefectures of Shikoku

• Tokushima
• Kagawa
• Ehime
• Kochi

Kyushu Region (九州地方) including Okinawa (沖縄)

Kyushu & Okinawa

Kyushu translates to “Nine Provinces” and is named such due to the Saikaido (西海道, “western sea circuit”) which means both division of country and the road running through it. An ancient term from the Asuka period nearly 1500 years ago.

Kyushu today consists of seven prefectures (and we tack on Okinawa for the 8^th in the region) and is the third largest island in Japan.  Being super close to Korea, you can actually hop a high-speed ferry over!

There are plenty of volcanoes, onsen, forests and green mountains to keep you busy, much of the island isn’t developed.

Prefectures of Kyushu

• Fukuoka
• Saga
• Nagasaki
• Kumamoto
• Ōita
• Miyazaki
• Kagoshima
• Okinawa

Know what the Weather is like for your trip to Japan

Growing up in DC, I’ve always likened Japan’s climate to the East Coast of the United States, explaining the diversity across the different regions.

Drop the “main land” down on top of the east coast and it stretches from about Portland, ME (near similar to Asahikawa’s latitude – the furthest North I’ve been in Japan) to south of Savanna, GA (Kagoshima being the largest city at the bottom of Kyushu). Tokyo would be somewhere in North Carolina.

With four distinct seasons across the mainland, the only thing you’ll have to consider is where you are going in your final decision.

Japan in spring

Spring months see moderate temperatures. Coming in spring? Most importantly, you’ll want to time your location with Japan’s famous cherry blossoms.  The Japan Meteorological Corporation (JMC) puts out a cherry blossom forecast every year around February but you can expect southern regions to begin in March and Northern in May.

Summer in Japan

Summer, thanks to the lovely humidity can be HOT in Japan in July and August. June brings the rainy season, but you can definitely make due even in the rain! Typhoon season, though on paper from June to November, normally gets going in July.  Summer is a great time to see some traditional festivals like Yosakoi and Obon.

Japan in autumn

Bring on the fall leaves! Typhoons tend to show up till October (don’t let that scare you, its more like tons of rain and some wind, we have windier days in winter half the time!). For leaf viewing, which is called 紅葉狩り (momijigari, autumn-leaf viewing) in Japanese, up north will start around mid-September with further south beginning in October and lasting sometimes all the way through December.

Winter in Japan

If you are a winter sports fanatic like me, this is the time to come to Japan! Thanks to the geography of how Japan sits on the world, she sees heavy snowfalls in the mountainous regions and gets amazing powder, especially up north in Hokkaido.  The rest of the country doesn’t see as much snow but nice cool weather will abound.

Utilize Tourist Information Centers 観光案内所 during your trip to Japan

There are more than 1,000 certified Tourist Information Centers 観光案内所  (kanko-annai-jo) throughout Japan. “Certified”, you ask? The Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO) and the Japan Tourism Agency began a Tourist Information Center (TIC) Certification Program in 2012 to ensure the quality of the information being presented. A quick stop in will serve you wonders.

Most often located in or directly near train stations, Japan’s tourist info centers are great resources on local attractions. They usually have maps available and at times, there won’t be info in English, but the staff can help you find your way. Usually, there are different language material broken into sections.

This is my go-to. Something I’ve found over the years in Japan, the Japan tourism information centers are amazing.  They have all sorts of local travel guides for you to sort through.  This isn’t the silly brochures you see at a Denny’s or your hotel back in the states or elsewhere, they are full-fledged pamphlets and books dedicated to help you plan your trip around Japan. 

I tend to play pin the tail on the map and just go with the flow when I’m traveling.  You don’t have to wait until you arrive. No “ok, I’m here, where to go?!”. Most of the information you will find is online.

Best though? Stop by and talk with the locals. Researching ahead of time can be tedious and you a lot of times only get the “popular stuff”.

Things I wouldn’t have found without Japan tourism information centers:

• the Apple Farm in Hirosaki
• the nebuta museum in Goshogawara
• how to get to Japan’s “#3” waterfall from Nikko
• bus routes in general
• Local cuisines to look out for (this is a BIG one, have you checked out my food account on Instagram?)
• the list goes on and on

Wondering if your city of choice will have information available upon arrival? JNTO has all of the TIC locations in a database. There are three levels of categories, dependent on how much area the center covers, what languages are spoken, days of operation and if Internet PC/Wi-Fi is available.

Each entry will link you to their official website which sometimes will have information packets you can print out beforehand!

Drop the “所” or “jyo” (literally, “place”) off the end and you get “Tourist Information”. The pieces of which can be roughly looked at, literally, as “outlook to a light of a plan inside”. I kind of like that, it’s like a “glimmer of hope” to find all the cool things!

Read Japan Travel Blogs!

I hope you find my site useful, as of writing this, I have over 100 articles JUST on Japan, and I’m barely scratching the surface! However, let’s face it, there are a million travel websites out there.

This is exactly why your search terms should include “JAPAN” in them. Lot’s of people have travelled to Japan, but getting your information from those that have lived here or travelled extensively has a lot more clout to me. A few of my favorites (besides my own, of course!):

Zooming Japan

Literally what I aspire my page to be. (And my travels to consist of). Jasmine has been living in Japan for over 7 years, been to all 47 prefectures and over 100 castles (completely up my alley).

Tokyo Desu

Fun fact about this, Cal and Mike are my friends IRL and I didn’t know they had this site until I found it on my own. They’ve got some great quips and a few guides to check out.

Donny Kimball

I found Donny’s website thanks to Instagram and he’s reason for more than a few of my Japan travel destinations. More off the beaten path, which is exactly what I love.

Buy a few Japan Guide Books

Sometimes you can’t beat a physical book. Highlight it, put tabs, be able to flip real fast without having to think, “what site was that on again?”. If it’s got a map, even better. Just in case you lose your internet connection. Most are tailored to overarching broad strokes of Japan or your popular destinations such as Tokyo or Kyoto. HOWEVER, if you can read Japanese (start with my guide to hiragana and katakana), there are literally travel books on every single thing you could possibly think of. Amazon.co.jp is your friend.

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

For those English readers, a few of my favorites are here. I like having the personal touch but also you can’t go wrong with Lonely Planet.

Narrowing down your trip to Japan

With areas like Kyoto being overcrowded with tourists, I hope this article helps you realize that there are many other impressive places to see for you first ( or next!) Japan trip! Why not get off the beaten path and head to the lesser–known?

Budget traveler? The best part with the Japan rail pass, you can get regional passes for much cheaper than the “all-access” pass that seems to be everyone’s go-to. Train travel truly is the best way to get around Japan.

Don’t forget, there are airports all over Japan so you have many options for your entry point! If it ends up making your long haul flight a little longer, consider it might save you time in the long run and I’ve got you covered with survival tips.

Where will you research take you?

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Kasumigajo Park is located in the city of Sakai in Fukui Prefecture, Japan. Probably one of the lesser-known prefectures, but that doesn’t mean there’s not a reason to go visit! Located at the base of Maruoka Castle (丸岡城, it’s an easy day trip from Kyoto on the Limited Express Thunderbird. Three birds with one stone, Japanese Garden, one of the original castles and a liner ticked off your list!

[PS. Need help planning your Japan trip? Feel free to reach out to me for help!]

What’s in a name?

Kasumigajo Park was built in 1979 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of Maruoka Castle. Ignore for the time being that all the information for the castle claims that it was built in 1576 (claimed because there are three of the original 12 castles that all claim they are the oldest and this is one of them) and that math doesn’t work out. So why wasn’t it called Maruokajo Park? It is Maruoka Castle, after all (城, jyou, is one of the on-yomi pronunciations of the word for a castle and normally romanized as “jo”).

There is a legend about Maruoka Castle that any time an enemy approaches, a wall of mist will appear out of nowhere and conceal it. Hence, it has a nickname of 霞ヶ城, かすみがじょう, kasumi-ga-jyou, “Castle of the Mist”. The garden uses this name instead.

Pro Tip: Don’t let the name confuse you!

Nihonmatsu Castle in Fukushima (another of the hundred finest and one I’ll have to tell you about later) is also known as Kasumigajo. Damn Castles and their nicknames. Also? The park in Fukushima bears the same name. So if you are looking up directions (other than the ones I’ll give you below!), make sure you choose the correct one!

Japanese Garden Elements

Japan has a thing with having the “three best” of something. Kenrokuen (兼六園), in Kanazawa, Korakeun (後楽園) in Okayama and Kairakuen (後楽園) in Mito hold those titles.

Why am I talking about OTHER gardens? Well, to be considered a “true” garden, based on Chinese landscape theory there are six features that make an ideal garden. And these three all emphasize them perfectly.

• spaciousness
• seclusion
• artifice
• antiquity
• water
• panoramas

So back to Kasumigajo Park. It has one of the cooklest koi ponds I’ve ever seen. You have the feeling you can just wade into the water and be one with nature.

One of the 100 Best Hanami: Maruoka Castle Hanami

Speaking of numbers, Japan also has a thing with “100 best” like the 100 finest castles that if you’ve been reading awhile, you know it’s an ultimate goal to get to all of them.

This park and the castle are considered one of the 100 best cherry blossom viewing locations in Japan. There are 400 cherry blossom trees to enjoy, 300 of which are lit up between 6 and 10 pm at night to enjoy. The festival at Maruoka Castle usually runs for the first half of April, make it a priority if you are in Japan for Cherry Blossom season.

Getting to Kasumigajo Park

You are going to need a bus to get to Kasumigajo Park. It’s a bit far from the station in Fukui (40 min) and Awara Onsen stations (20 min) on the JR Hokuriku Main Line.

Don’t let the bus system intimidate you (I know it did for me at first!), catch the Keifuku Bus bound for Maruoka Castle (丸岡城).

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

Things to do nearby

First off, definitely visit Maraoka Castle! It’s one of the 12 remaining original castles of Japan.

Fukui is famous for their soba with different “varietals” of buckwheat in various regions. In fact, most of the prefecture’s soba is harvested in Sakai! Try Maruoka’s and compare it to some of the others, like Awara if you went with that option for travel!

While we’re speaking about food, Fukui is also where Koshihikari rice was invented. Koshihikari is the “premium” of all Japan If you like rice, this is where you should get it!

Another thing Fukui is known for is it’s Echizen Bamboo dolls. You can see the fine work of craftsman (or 職人, shokunin) at the 越前竹人形の里 (えちぜんたけにんぎょうのさと, Echizen Bamboo Doll Village).

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Did you know that Japan has massive sand dunes? One of the lesser-known prefectures, Tottori, is located on the west coast of the main island of Japan along the Sea of Japan. The Tottori Sand Dunes (鳥取砂丘, Tottori Sakyu) are the largest in Japan and one of the main attractions for visitors, regularly pulling in a few million tourists a year.

Tottori Sand Dunes

The Tottori Sand Dunes are part of the San’in Kaigan National Park, a UNESCO Global Geopark. If you are into nature travel, this is definitely a corner of Japan you should visit. At 16 km along the coast and at one point coming nearly 2 km into the land, the tallest dunes are 50m (!).

Side note, I use to only speak metric for running, after living outside America so long, it’s grown on me completely.

The dunes were created thousands of years ago by deposits from the near by Sendai river. The main visitor center gives you a detailed history of the changes to the land as well as insight into the creatures and vegetation that make these dunes their home.

Tourist Attractions

Along with enjoying nature, you have a wide variety of gimmicky tourist attractions to choose from. Camel rides and a random little ski lift to give you an aerial view. For the more adventurous, there is sandboarding or paragliding.

Bottom line? You can spend some time here.

Hungry? There are several restaurants in the area. Make sure you try some crab while you are in Tottori, the local specialty.

Being Prepared for the Sand

Forgot to pack the right shoes for hiking around on the sand? They have slippers for you to borrow at the Visitor Center.

The weather is apt to change at any point while in Japan, especially this close to the sea so make sure you come prepared with some rain gear. (For my go–to items, check out this post.)

Getting to Tottori Sand Dunes

Probably the most convenient way to get around town is the Loop Bus. However, unless you are there in August, it only runs on weekends and holidays.

You can buy your 600 yen pass at the train station at the information booth (and it also has an English copy of the timetable) or onboard.

Not there on a day for the pass? From Tottori Station, take the Nikko or Hinomaru bus bound for Tottori Sakyuu. For more on bus rides, this guide will help you feel more comfortable.

Things to do near by

Even though it’s not as known, Tottori has a lot going for it. Don’t miss the Sand Museum which regularly changes displays.

Disclosure: Kristenabroad.com is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program and other affiliate programs. For some links to products or services in this article, I may earn a small commission by you using my link.  The price for you is not affected.

Getting to Tottori

From Kyoto, you can hop on the Super Hakuto (スーパーはくと), a limited express train service straight to Tottori. Getting a JR Rail Pass? If you are limiting your visit to this side of the country, the Sanyo-San’in Area Pass is much cheaper than the “All Japan” pass.

Where to stay

If you aren’t looking for anything fancy, APA Hotels are a great way to go. They are generally very inexpensive and conveniently located close to the railway stations. Many of them also have public baths on site for the true Japan experience.

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Otaru (小樽) is a small port town located 30-45 minutes northwest of Sapporo by train. It’s a nice stopover on the way to Niseko which is how I first discovered it. If you are in Sapporo for the Snow Festival in winter, it’s a good day trip.

At the turn of the 1900s, Otaru was the biggest city in Hokkaido and the shipping industry flourished. Due to the money associated with the trade, it came to be known as the “Wall Street of the North” and many big banks were located here. It’s more known feature perhaps is its canal which was created by reclaiming the land from the sea to create more space for the industry. After it was renovated in the later 1900s, Otaru’s tourism industry boomed.

#1 There in Winter? Snow Light Path

小樽雪あかりの路, Otaru Yuki Akari no Michi, or Otaru’s Snow Light Path coincides with Sapporo Snow Festival. Well, sort of. In 2019, it ran from February 8 to 17th. So hit the last weekend at the Sapporo festival and make sure to swing over here!

The event that started in 1999 has grown to 40 venues around the city. The most stunning being the 200 or so small candles strung across the canal waters. And this is Japan, so there is a stamp rally at each of the venues! So look out to add to your collection.

If you just walk around at night time, you’ll find the different areas all lit up.

#2 Go for a rickshaw ride

Ebisuya Rickshaw Company operates all over Japan. Tours are customizable from a basic 12 minute jaunt to over an hour. It was -12C and I honestly felt bad for the guy standing out in the cold. I chose the 22 minute option when I went. They give you plenty of blankets and some heat packs but I was starting to get cold near the end!

The guides speak English and depending on where you pick them up, you’ll be able to see different areas of the city. I choose to go north and see some of the old architecture. I learned a lot from my guide and they are more than happy to take lots of pictures as you go! Another plus is they are from the area and can suggest other things for you to do as well.

#3 Get your Otaru history on

If you like historical buildings, then 小樽の歴史的建造物, おたるのれきしてきけんぞうぶつ, Otaru no rekishi teki kenzoubutsu, or Otaru’s Historic Monuments are for you. The first time I was in Otaru, I loved taking the pictures of all the buildings but didn’t realize that there are purple placards all over the place. Side note: there was mostly likely snow covering most of them, Hokkaido has tons of snow!! I learned that from my rickshaw driver actually! You can learn about the specifics of the history and the city provides a guide map and pamphlet so you can find them all. Don’t worry, the guide book is in Japanese but the placards on the buildings are in English as well!

#4 Shop along Sakaimachi Street

Sakaimachi Street (Sakaimachidori, 堺町通り) started as a merchant street and now contains many a shop in the historic buildings. I’ve seen the kanji on websites differ from this spelling but this is what the shopping districts official website spells it so can’t discount that! There are many places to eat along the 900 m stretch as well as find some famous Hokkaido Soft Cream.

#5 Kitaichi Glass (北一硝子)

If there is one thing that Otaru is known for besides being the “Wallstreet of Hokkaido” back in the day, it’s glass. Kitaichi Glass (北一硝子) is located along Sakaimachidori and can be considered “the original”. However, there are many locations for Kitaichi!

The “headquarters” can be considered at 北一硝子三号館, Kitaichi Glass Sangokan (literally, “third building”…what did I say about Japan and it’s original names!). The building was originally constructed in 1891 as a fishery and now the grand hall café with its unique oil lamps is worth it even if you aren’t interested in looking at the room-upon-room of different glassware.

The lamps are what put Kitaichi on the map in 1901 as they were used extensively before electricity.

#6 Do some glass crafts

If you have time, why not try out a glass making class?! There are many options available around town from simple glass beads, glass etching and even full on glass blowing. Go to the shop early to secure your spot and if there is a wait, spend your time enjoying the scenery around town.

#7 Music box museum

The Music Box museum is located at the end of Sakaimachidori and while it’s called a “museum”, this is much more shop than somewhere to learn. There are exhibits and many old music boxes to look at though. One unique piece on the upper floors is you can build your own music box after trying out a multitude of different tunes.

#8 Try some local beer

Otaru Beer is located right at the canal and has free tours of the facilities in English. The beers are all made to German purity laws and quite tasty. The restaurant is set like a beer hall and serves, yes, you guessed it, mostly German food. Worth the stop or if you are around town, most places seem to have Otaru beer in bottles, if not on tap.

#9 Local food scene

I’m all about trying the local food. This is a fishing port, after all, so look out for tasty sushi. Hokkaido is also known for a dish called ジンギスカン, Jingusukan. Or literally “Genghis Khan”. Yes, like the person. No idea where the name came from but if you like lamb, it’s delicious. Served on a hot iron plate, will consist of lamb and vegetables like cabbage or pumpkin and bean sprouts with a yummy sauce.

Where to stay?

Decided you love it and want to stay another day? The Smile Hotel is located conveniently to the train station and runs fairly cheap. It’s a small budget hotel room but it gets the job done!

How to get to Otaru

Your best option is the train system. A quick ride from Sapporo Station to Otaru Station has got you covered! The train ticket as of writing this cost 640 yen one-way. The airport express will get you there a little bit faster than the local liners.

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Matsumoto Castle (松本城) in Nagano Prefecture was my first of the original Japanese castles to visit. An easy stopover for the snow monkeys or any ski trip up to the area.  She claims to be the oldest, “claims” because Inuyama Castle (犬山城) and Maruoka castle (丸岡城) claim the same thing. If *I’m* going to have a say in it, I go with Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle because she’s been around the longest of any of them if you count the sortie history of them MOVING the entire castle from another mountain (that’s insane).  But I digress.

What’s in a name?

Castles in Japan like to have nicknames.  It’s completely a thing. Matsumoto Castle is also referred to as 烏城, kurasujyou. Or Crow Castle, due to her black exterior.  She’s not the only one though. Okayama Castle also has the same nickname. For the same reason. Although they use the same kanji, Okayama Castle is pronounced “U-jyou”.  I love Japanese.

Matsumoto Castle (松本城) Designations

Along with being one of the 12 original Japanese castles, Matsumoto Castle is apart of the five that are included as a National Treasure. She is 5 tiered but 6 floors inside. Something her own website claims they only share with Himeji Castle.  However, Matsue Castle also has 5 tiers and 6 floors.  There’s probably some nuance they are getting around for that one.

Unique Features

Do you recall me saying that Inuyama Castle (犬山城) was pretentious for only mentioning the 5 other castles that are National Treasures? Matsumoto doesn’t mention any of them! It does make mention to one of the 100 finest castles though, Okayama (岡山城).

Okayama castle and Matsumoto share a unique beautiful bit of architecture. This is a moon viewing room and is open on three sides. Added after the warring states period. Peace time allows the lord had a chance to admire the moon I suppose!

Castle Promotion Team

Don’t miss the period dressed castle promotion team when you go to Matsumoto Castle. Dressed in traditional garb, be prepared for some awesome pictures.

Festivals at Matsumoto Castle

The castle grounds known for it’s Cherry Blossoms, a great place for hanami (I don’t think you can go wrong with any of the castles). Summer time there is a Taiko Drum festival. Now on my list of things to see? Takiji Noe performance (play put on with torch lights). Autumn there is a moon viewing party.

If you go during any of these events, you can expect the castle to be very busy so account for wait time. As it’s close to skiing, you also have a good chance to catch her in the snow during winter time.

Getting There

Driving for this one is an option. Especially if you are tying it to a ski trip. There is ample parking available in town.  There’s also some good micro breweries in town though so trains are an option as well.  It’s Japan! There’s practically always a way to get there by train! Expect about a three hour trek from Tokyo to get here. Even with a shinkansen as part of your plan.

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This is it! Inuyama castle (犬山城) was the last of the 12 original castles for me to visit. Located in Aichi Prefecture, it claims to be the oldest castle.  Claims because Maruoka Castle and Matsumoto Castle state the same thing. The conflicting information is hilarious and what makes history interesting. I think it’s fun to let them duke it out. Located right on a river, it’s very picturesque. Don’t worry, the 40 m rise isn’t too bad of a hill to hike up.

The pretentious Inuyama Castle

Another funny note about Inuyama Castle. She definitely has a complex. Or at least the town folks do. Not only is there the whole “I’m oldest!” thing. But where as every other castle of the 12 displays pictures inside the keep of all 12 castles, Inuyama shows 5. Why’s that, you ask?  Because only 5 of them are designated as National Treasures. The rest are “Important Cultural Properties” alone.

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Don’t forget to get your stamp for the 100 finest castles of Japan Stamp Rally!  This was actually my first stamp as I finally found the book (日本100名城に行こう 公式スタンプ帳つき)in the Inuyama Castle gift shop.

Unique Features

The 唐破風, Karahafu room as it’s called for the beautiful curved gables is located on one of the floors in the castle.  The plover shaped windows are unique to Inuyama. The “kara” part of the world signifies the style came from China.

Experience more of the history

A mostly replicated Castle town is out the front gate of Inuyama Castle. You get the feel of what it use to be like.  There is one of the great three tea houses here too, of which I didn’t have time to go to, nor did I learn about until I was checking facts and figures for this post! Always leave something for next time!

Getting Here

A quick 15 minute walk from the Inuyama-Yuen Station on the Meitetsu line will get you up the hill to Inuyama Castle.

Maruoka Castle claims to the oldest of the 12 original castles still in existence in Japan. I say “claims” because their signage all says so but they are not the only castle (I’m looking at you Inuyama and Matsumoto) to state the fact.  2018 has been the year of the castle and I’ve been pilgraming around to get you all the details. How to get there, what not to miss, and which are the best (in my opinion).

Maruoka Castle Claim to the Original 12 Japanese Castles

Built in 1576, it was knocked down by a massive earthquake in 1948. However, it was rebuilt with 80% of the original materials so it still counts as one of the originals. 80 percent solution?

Myth and Legend

There are a few legends surrounding this castle. One, it’s haunted.  Oddly, in my opinion, by a woman.  I would think as it’s a place of war, the haunting would be a given but I think only samurai. Second, it has a nickname.  霞ヶ城, Kasumigajyou, Mist Castle because supposedly, when enemies approached it, it would get covered in a thick mist. That’s a pretty convienent trick.  She’s pretty out on the open in the plain.

Maruoka Castle Details

Like some of the other castles, looks are deceiving. From the outside, it appears to be two stories, where as inside there are three. The stairs are something else in this one though. More a ladder at 67 degree angle. Be cautious when you are climbing!

There is an English recording inside the castle on repeat that gives you some of the details of the castle. One being the unique stone roof, instead of tiles. The Shakudani stones are only located in Fukui prefecture.

Don’t forget to get your stamp for the 100 finest castles stamp rally while you are here.

The gardens

I think this is one of the best castles for extra details.  The koi pond was one of the best I’ve seen.  Kasumigajo Park was built as commemoration of the 400th year of the castles construction.

The museum

Along with your admission to the castle, you can go into the Folk Museum at the bottom of the hill that has relics found from the castle.  In Japanese, but worth a look.

Getting to Maruoka Castle

You may be tempted to take the train to Maruoka Station. There is a bus from there supposedly, but I wasn’t able to get a good enough time table on it and believe it only runs early in the morning. The walk is about 4km from Maruoka station so if you need a walk for the day, it’s still not a deal breaker.

Better is to get off at Fukui Station and take bus number 36 or 39. They run all day and their last stop is the castle so its fairly straight forward. Give yourself a little over an hour to make it from Fukui City to Sakai City, where the castle is located. There is also bus number 31 but it leaves very early in the morning. If you want to hit the castle first thing, I think it’s trip is faster.

Getting There – Bus Timetables

If you’ve been following along, you know it’s sometimes next to impossible to find bus timetables.  So voila! Here you have them for getting from Fukui Station to Maruoka Castle.

Let me know what you think in the comments!